George Argiris' Ingenious Home-Made Chain Keeper

Here's an ingenious home-made chain keeper that you can make for clamp-on front derailleurs. George Argiris makes them for his bicycles and he sent me this photo and the following instructions on how to make it so I could share them with you. Thanks, George!

Quick disclaimer: You only need a chain keeper if you are certain that your front derailleur is adjusted perfectly, yet the chain still comes off the chainring occasionally when shifting to the smallest chainring. If your chain never comes off, you don't need a keeper. If your chain comes off and you're not sure whether or not your front derailleur is adjusted correctly, have it checked by a pro before adding a chain keeper.

Chain keepers keep the chain on
A chain keeper (they can also be called "chain catchers" and "chain guides" - here's a selection of commercial models) is a little device that rests inboard of the small chainring. Should the chain start to come off the small chainring, the chain keeper bumps it and pushes it back on so it can't drop off.

Chain keepers have become popular because compact cranksets have gotten popular. Compacts have a larger difference between the small and large chainring sizes, which can cause shifting glitches, including throwing the chain off when you shift onto the small chainring. This shouldn't happen on a properly adjusted  matched system - in other words, on a Shimano compact crankset with a Shimano derailleur and shifter.

It provides peace of mind that your chain won't fall off
However, a lot of riders choose to mix and match components. Add that fact to the difficulty of properly adjusting front derailleurs, and it's easy to understand why chains can come off. Now, when a chain does happen to come off, it's usually a simple matter to just shift it back on, soft pedaling until it engages (you don't even need to get off your bike).

But, most riders would rather not have it come off in the first place. Hence the profusion of chain keepers. These days, besides on bikes with compact cranksets, you'll see them on bikes with standard doubles and triples sometimes, too.

George Argiris's ingenious chain keeper

George Argiris' home-made chain keeper

George's home-made model is an elegant design for clamp-on front derailleurs. It cleverly takes the place of the clamp hinge pin and is locked in place as you tighten the derailleur. This gives it such an integrated look you might think it was part of the derailleur right out of the box (click to enlarge the photo).

Plus, it looks far better than having a separate chain keeper attached beneath the front derailleur - especially a plastic one. It also won't collect crud and make the area harder to clean. And it weighs next to nothing. Interestingly, there have been wire chain keepers of various designs since the dawn of the derailleur so it's a proven way to control the chain.


What you need to make your chain keeper
1) From your local hobby shop get a #507 (or 1/8-inch) diameter steel rod (get stainless if you can so it won't rust).
2) The first bend is about 1 1/2 inches from the end, and about a 1-inch bent section at a 30-degree angle, or whatever it takes to reach over to the chainring.
3) The second bend is 1 inch from the bottom of that bend to where you'll cut it off.

Notes

* The measurements and bends may vary slightly. You'll have to check it as you go.

* Get the rod to within 1/8-inch or so from the chain, and it shouldn't really hang down any farther than the chainring.

* If the new hinge pin (your chain keeper) doesn't go in easy, drill out the hinge hole with a 1/8-inch drill bit.
* Don't worry if the new pin feels loose, because once you tighten the clamp onto the seat tube of you bicycle frame, it will hold the pin tight.
* You can adjust your new chain keeper by just nudging it one way or the other before the final tightening.

If you have a braze-on derailleur, RoadBikeRider.com owner/cyclist John Marsh sells an e-article on how to make one that resembles George's quite a bit, but mounts beneath the derailleur mounting bolt. The e-article goes for $4.25 and is available here.

Here's to no more dropped chains! Many thanks to George for sharing this trick bike mod!
Jim

Q&A: Bicycle Seat Relief

While most cyclists do fine on normal, everyday bicycle seats, some people, like Nick here, suffer so badly they consider giving up biking, which is a shame. Fortunately, there are all kinds of seats to choose from, and even some very unique ones as I explain... 

Q: Hi Jim,

I'm coming to you almost as a last resort. My story is, I got into biking again because I liked it as a kid and my doctor said I needed to start exercising. (I can't walk or jog much cause my back's not so good.) So, I went out and got a basic mountain bike - nothing fancy - but something to ride around on that has a comfortable upright riding position. 

For a few months now, I've been getting out a couple of times a week and actually enjoying it except for one thing. My butt is killing me. And nothing I've tried seems to help. I go numb and get so sore I have to keep stopping and it's taking all the fun away. I tried switching to a wider, softer seat, but that didn't work. I think my seat is adjusted right too. I even bought some cycling shorts with the padding inside and even that didn't make the pain and numbness go away.

Is there any way to get a comfortable seat or do I have to find another type of exercise?

Nick

The Spongy Wonder (keep reading for details)

A: Sorry to hear about your saddle sores, Nick, but it's a common problem with many new or returning riders and something that can bother even pro riders sometimes. In fact of all the cycling inventions created since the first bike came along about 150 years ago, there have probably been more seats than anything else because yours is such a common complaint and always has been.

There's a lot to understand about seats and what causes saddle sores and how to prevent them and my extensive online bicycle seats guide should help you as it has many others in your shoes. For example, you said that you had tried a wider, softer, seat. But sometimes what's needed is a narrower, firmer saddle that provides more support and doesn't squish and get in the way so much. 

You also said you had tried cycling shorts but maybe no one told you that these special shorts are meant to be worn alone (without underwear) since the seams in underwear can press on nerves and cause numbness, and also chafe. And, even seat adjustment can be tricky. A little too high or low makes a big difference and if the seat is angled up or down that can cause problems too. Here's how to adjust a seat.

Any good bicycle shop will have an expert who can take a look at your bike's setup and your seat and tell you if they spot something wrong. And they should be happy to let you try different seats since there are so many types. Usually, as long as the seat is in new condition you can bring it back and trade it for another one until you find the one that feels right. Another way to test seats is to try the ones your riding friends like. Maybe they had problems and found one that works for them that you'll like too. And, the bike shop may be able to recommend a saddle based on what's not working for you now.

The Real Seat

But, let's say that all of these steps don't work, and you just can't find a seat that doesn't hurt you. What do you do then? I recommend trying non-standard seats, also called alternate or alternative seats. They're unique and can be a little hard to find so I provide a regularly updated list (I just added the Carbon Comfort Saddle this week) on my bicycle seats guide and I've provided a few examples here so you can see just how different they are.

Probably the most unconventional looking is the Real Seat. Kind of like putting the seat from a lawn chair on your bicycle, it provides a wide sling seat for comfort and support that feels a little like sitting on a playground swing.

Tip: If you switch to one of these alternate seats from a standard saddle, there's a learning curve. Riding on a regular seat you control the bike a good bit with your thighs holding and pushing on the front of the seat (the "nose"). 

But on alternate seats, you often sit more on top of the seat and there's usually no nose to use to control the bike, so you'll want to practice to get used to it.

The oldest alternate seat that I can remember is the Easy Seat (it also goes by the "Hobson seat.") I remember ads for this in the sixties (the name has changed over the years) and it's still selling strong all these years later.

It's a two-part seat, which is actually a very early design dating back to the 1890's. The idea is that if the seat is split in half, there won't be any pressure on your sensitive areas and each half can move with your pedaling motion unlike a standard seat that remains fixed in one place. 

The BiSaddle

The Easy Seat has two cupped and cushioned "pads" that can be adjusted sideways so that they're directly beneath your sit bones.

Tip: Since alternate seats can be expensive and you may have to order online, ask if they'll take the seat back if it doesn't work for you. If they won't do that, ask if there's a local bike shop that carries the seat so you can try it out. No? Maybe they sold one to someone in your town and that person will let you come check it out? You might make a new riding buddy that way and find a nice new seat.

Two other seats that use the two-part design are the BiSaddle that comes in men's and women's versions and can be fine-tuned to your exact sit-bone distance (photo), and the also adjustable-width Spongy Wonder (photo, top of page), which several readers have told me made their saddle woes go away.

See my list for more choices, and I hope my seat tips help you enjoy pain-free rides so you can continue cycling.

Jim

Happy Holidays!

Here's an early cycling Christmas "card" to wish you and yours very Happy Holidays! I find some of the details on this 1886/87 magazine cover fascinating.

I was surprised to see the abbreviation "Xmas" in the title and love the snow-capped, frozen font. Look at how the Os in Book have been turned into bicycle wheels. And, I think the red emblem in the center of the C in Cycledom is a chariot wheel, while the zeros that decorate the C likely represent mileage, since already cyclists took great pride in how far they rode each season and watch-quality striker-style cyclometers were popular.

Notice too that the fellow with the mustache is mounting his ordinary (also called a high bicycle, highwheel, penny farthing), which would have been the popular bicycle at the time. Below on that tranquil road is a tandem tricycle. Women riding highwheels was frowned upon so they often rode tricycles.

Then, depicting the future is a chap with what what I believe is a Rover, one of the "modern" designs that would lead to what we ride today. Finally, the winged wheel at the bottom is the icing on the cake.

Enjoy the holidays!
Jim

VIDEO: Tour de Speed

As a masters competitor (over 35 years old), I am at one end of the bicycle-racing spectrum. There are plenty of races and riders, and major events like state, national and even world championships. While it's all great fun, for cycling to grow and thrive we need kids to take it up. Our team Bicycle Trip has a large, well-organized and talented juniors team that we masters support, however, without support like that, it can be challenging to get into the sport.

So, I enjoyed seeing, and wanted to share this video of the Tour de Speed in Canada, an annual stage race (time trial and road race) for girls and boys age 10 to 16. It's put on by the Newmarket Eagles Cycling Club of Newmarket, Ontario as part of the Ontario Cycling Association's Ontario Youth Cup 6-race series. I wish there had been something like this when I started riding.


Tour Of Speed 2010 from Scott K. Douglas on Vimeo.

To view on Vimeo: http://www.vimeo.com/16148307

VIDEO from USA Cyclocross Nationals

My cyclocross-racing friend John Brown who owns Family Cycling Center here in Santa Cruz, let me know about this excellent video by Logan that captures the action of the Masters Women's 45-49 USA National Championship Cyclocross Race today in Bend, Oregon. Check out that stair run. Ouch!
To view on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQi0NPXdUds

Jim's Bicycle Gift Guide

Here are a few gift suggestions sure to please the cyclists on your list. Keep in mind that you can roll into any bicycle shop and find plenty of other cycling gifts from staples like socks and gloves, tools and spare tires and tubes, to complete bicycles.

Many shops offer valuable services they'll love, too, such as bike fits, bicycle tune-ups and overhauls or upgrade packages to turn her old bike into a thoroughbred. Plus, stores often have gift certificates and cards. Or, pick up one of my suggestions below.

Crud Catcher Roadracer Fenders

Crud Catcher Roadracer Fenders, $45

This is a super-cool and functional seasonal accessory for anyone who owns a full-on road racing bicycle - the racier, the better. These sleek machines typically have almost no clearance between the wheels and frame, so it’s difficult to impossible to find full fenders that fit - especially on sculpted carbon framesets.

Plus, even if they find fenders for it, they look all wrong on their two-wheel Ferrari. Enter Crud Catcher’s Roadrace fenders, incredibly minimal full fenders that weigh only 180 grams per pair, provide exceptional coverage to keep them and their bike dry and clean, and perhaps most amazingly, actually complement the elegant look of their dream bike.

Feedback Sports Stand

Feedback Sports Pro-Classic Repair Stand, $200

If they like to work on their own bicycles (and what cyclist doesn’t?), they’ll love getting Feedback Sports’ Pro-Classic Repair Stand. It has a sturdy tripod base, their simple-to-use and safe Slide-Lock clamp, an adjustable working height from 42 to 71 inches (short or tall they’ll wrench in comfort) and 360-degree bicycle rotation for easy access to all systems. It also folds small and weighs only 11 pounds so they can use it at home and on the road. I’ve been using an early version of this stand for over 10 years and it has been exceptional.

If you'd like to help equip them to actually get some work done on their new stand, consider gifting them a few key tool that every bicycle mechanic needs, and that most shops stock, such as a nice pedal wrench, an allen wrench set and a bicycle cable cutter (a special tool that cuts bicycle cables without fraying).

DeFeet Wool Gloves

DeFeet DuraGlove Charcoal Merino Wool Gloves and Woolie Boolie Charcoal Merino Wool Socks, $18.50 and $15

Give them the gift of comfort with DeFeet’s Merino wool gloves and socks. They insulate, breathe and wick moisture away from the skin to keep their fingers and toes warm and dry on all their winter rides. Plus, wool is unique in that it will keep them warm even when it's wet.

The gloves feature silicone grippers on the palms and fingers for excellent braking and shifting control. Both socks and gloves are machine washable for easy care and impressively durable for long life. They're quite popular for cyclocross racing and every bit as useful for everyday wear.

IMBA Mountain Biking Calendar

VeloPress Cycling Calendars, $14.95 each

Whether they're a professional road-racing fan, a mountain biker, a triathlete or just getting into the sport, VeloPress has calendars that'll remind them of you and inspire them all year long with beautiful action shots from the top photographers of some of the most famous races and racers in the world.

Choose from the VeloNews Road Racing Calendar, the IMBA Mountain Biking Calendar and the Inside Triathlon Calendar. Also on the VeloPress site is a wide assortment of cycling books they'd love to read on bike maintenance, nutrition, racing history and even cycling fiction.

Shimano Ultegra Wheelset WH-6700, $695

Shimano Ultegra Tubeless Wheelset

Every road rider will love a second set of wheels, and Shimano’s WH-6700s are no ordinary hoops. Even though they’re significantly less expensive, they boast most of the features of Shimano’s top-line Dura-Ace wheels and only weigh about 138 grams more. What’s most special about these wheels, and why your giftee will be thrilled to get them is that they accept tubeless tires (I recommend Hutchinson Fusion 3 tires).

This means they’ll enjoy noticeably smoother, more-efficient rides and suffer fewer flat tires too. Plus, they boast all of Shimano’s wheel-design wizardry, from the bladed, direct-pull stainless-steel spokes (20 rear, 16 front), to the ideal 24/23mm (F/R) aero rim profiles, to the reliable, easily serviced Ultegra hubs, to the 8-/9-/10-speed Shimano/SRAM cassette compatibility and the included Shimano quick releases and special tubeless valves. I've been riding on Shimano tubeless wheels since they were first introduced and I believe tubeless technology is one of the most significant improvements in ride quality available today. It's nice that you can now get it at a lower price point.

CatEye HL-EL135 Headlight, $20

CatEye HL-EL135 Headlight

When they said the best things come in small packages they could have been talking about CatEye’s miniature marvel, the HL-EL135. It’s only 3 ¼ x 1 ⅞ x ¾ inches (L x W x H) and takes up so little handlebar space that you’ll hardly know it’s there, and you’ll have room for other accessories too. Plus, CatEye’s simple tool-free FlexTight constricting-band mount lets you put it on any-diameter bar in seconds.

Best, it boasts 3 brilliant white LEDs powered by 2 standard AA batteries, steady and flashing modes and the beam is boosted by CatEye’s OptiCube reflector to ensure you’re seen. Note that this is a minimal light designed for safety, which is the kind of light I like to use on my bike. It's so small you can carry it in your pocket or backpack and always have it available.

If your cyclist needs a wide, powerful beam to illuminate roads and trails for hours on end, you'll want to consider that gift certificate at your bicycle shop I mentioned. With it they can visit and select their ideal torch. There are just too many features and price points to take a chance on gifting them the wrong light if they need that type.

Crank Brothers Multi 17

Crank Brothers Multi 17 Mini-Tool, $27

Gift them a little insurance on all their rides with this invaluable stocking stuffer from Crank Brothers. The Multi 17 all-in-one provides all the tools they need to fix minor breakdowns on the road and trail from tightening a loose part, to truing a warped wheel, to fine-tuning the shifting, to fixing a broken chain, to just about anything else that could go wrong.

And this nifty ride-saver is a folding design so it's compact enough to always take along and all the tools are easily accessed and built to last. There's also nothing that can fall off and get lost, and it's available in grey and gold.

Giro Prolight Helmet, $200

Giro Prolight Helmet

If your favorite cyclist has been riding for years, the chances are good that he's using a helmet that's a few years old. Do him a huge favor and gift him Giro's new Prolight, a super-light (184 to 218 grams depending on size), ultra-comfortable lid that'll make him feel like he left his helmet home.

The best part is that it's so light it takes less effort to hold your head up so he'll feel great no matter how far he rides. And, this featherweight has impressive safety and comfort features, too, such as Giro's tough Inmold construction, 25 air-channeling vents to keep him dry, Giro's easily adjusted and secure Roc Loc SL fitting system and antimicrobial X-static helmet pads that feel great and eliminate odors.

Specialized S-Works Road Shoes

Specialized S-Works Road Shoes, $350

Okay, $350 is a lot, even for a pair of serious road shoes, but the S-Works are actually so advanced they'll probably make your cyclist feel like a new rider (that's what they did for me). What they'll notice right out of the box is the lightness (about 235 grams per pair in size 42), which means energy savings on every pedal stroke. It's courtesy of the Specialized FACT high-modulus, unidirectional carbon soles and the featherweight and breathable Micromatrix uppers.

The lightness is great but the stiffness of these shoes is off the charts, and it's an amazing feeling of more power when you hit the gas to flatten a hill or close a gap. They'll also love the dual Boa closures that allow them to dial in the perfect fit and the Specialized High Performance footbeds that offer excellent support and prevent hot spots. Yet, the most impressive feature may be Specialized's Body Geometry design, which helps align their feet with their knees so that they pedal more efficiently and comfortably, and remain injury free mile after glorious mile.

Happy Holidays!
Jim

Q&A: Fixing Dented Deep-Dish Carbon Wheel & Lacing Spokes

Winter's a great time to get your equipment ready for next season and to work on your mechanical skills, like wheelbuilding. From this week's mailbag, here are two related Q and As with feedback and photos from the cyclists showing their handiwork.

This first question is from my Bicycle Trip/Symantec teammate Miles, who is one of our top 45+ masters racers.

Dented carbon rim

Q: Hope you can help me out, Jim. I wanted to make my race bike even faster with some deep-dish carbon sew-up (tubular) wheels. I did my research and decided to buy some made by Edge, which have a great reputation (FYI, they changed their name to Enve recently).

These are pricey wheels so I decided to search eBay and I found what looked to be the perfect pair at a sweet price.

I won the auction, but when the wheels arrived I was depressed to find a large dent in the front rim. Here's a photo. Did I get ripped off? Should I send the wheels back? They're very true and round and all the spokes are nice and tight. I can't see any other signs of damage but I hate this dent. What would you do?

Thanks!
Miles

A: You said the wheel is very true and round and all the spokes are nice and tight. That's good, Miles. As long as there's no other damage (did you check for cracks in the rim where the spokes enter it?) - the dent is probably only cosmetic damage not unlike when a shopping cart rolls into and dents your car. It's ugly and frustrating, but it won't affect the strength of the wheel.

Tall, deep-dish carbon rims like this are often pretty flimsy. You can squeeze them and make the sidewalls flex a lot so it's easy to see how someone running into the wheels in the race pack could have done this. Or maybe, just putting them in the back of a car and someone putting something on top of the wheel dented it. So, it pays to watch out for stuff like this.

Why don't you bring the wheel over to my home workshop and I'll check it out and see if it's fixable? I'm thinking we can pop it out similar to how you'd get a dent out of a car fender.