Q&A: Torque Wrenches, tires sizes and sources

Q: Jim,
Just got a new Giant racing bicycle (love it) and have been out on a maiden voyage. The frameset and many of the components are made of carbon and I am concerned about getting the torques right as I make adjustments and repairs. Do you recommend a bike-specific torque wrench (Park has one in the $40 range), or can I just go pick one up at Sears and get the same thing?

Thanks,
Chris

A: Good question, Chris. Yes, I definitely recommend a torque wrench for caring for carbon bicycles and carbon components. These bikes and parts have a different feel than steel and aluminum ones and the only way to get the tightness right is by reading the instructions or looking on the components to find the recommended torque (often written on the parts), and using a torque wrench to get the bolts just tight enough.

Also, in my experience with these super bikes, things tend to loosen more and need regular checking. Anytime you're installing a new part or making adjustments, getting the torque right will ensure you never break or damage anything, which can save you a lot of money when you consider how expensive most carbon bikes and parts are.

I have 2 Park torque wrenches, like them and recommend them. The ones I have are bar-type wrenches that have an indicator needle that points at a little scale on the tool as you torque the bolt (photo). Park also shows a new click-type tool on their site that they say will be available in April. Click-type wrenches are set to the torque you require and when you're tightening the bolt, the wrench makes a click you can hear and feel when the bolt is tightened right so you can't overtighten it.

While you can get torque wrenches from places like Sears and The Home Depot and Harbor Freight, etc., I recommend bike-specific ones because most general torque wrenches are made for car work so they often provide a ton of leverage with long handles. That's not ideal for bike use where you often have to reach into small places and where you don't ever want to overtighten or break things with too much power. So, I would look for one that's not too big and that measures in inch pounds and Newton meters since bike parts are usually marked that way. The Park models do this and work fine.

Another wrench you might like is the Giustaforza, a $150 Italian bicycle-specific model that I reviewed a while bike and now keep in my toolbox because it's so handy. Here's a link where you can order it. Another one that's very low tech but does work for most stem/bars with basic 4mm bolts is Ritchey's Torque Key. It's preset and only does 5 Newton meters but that's right for most bolts and most Ritchey stuff. It only has the 4mm Allen bit, though, so it's not that versatile, but if you have only, or mostly 4mm Allen bolts it could work. It's $20 and is a click-type tool small enough to take anywhere.

If you're interested in reading many more tips about caring for carbon bicycles and components, visit this link,

To proper torquing,
Jim

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Q: Hi Jim,

I need to change the tyre of my bike and I'd like to order it online. I'll be able to fit it myself but I'm not sure which size is the right one. If I read the number on the old front tyre it says 700 x 38c. This is a normal tyre, while at the back I have an anti-puncture Schwalbe tyre, and the size on it is 700 x 32c. So now I'm confused. Which size should I get: 700 x 38c or 700 x 32c? And, where can I buy it online?

Hope you can help,
Antonell

A: Hi Antonell,
Your tire sizes of 700 x 38c and 700 x 32c mean that they are both the same diameter (700c) but that one is 38mm wide and the other is 32mm wide. In other words, you have one tire wider than the other tire.

It's actually up to you how wide you want your tires to be. You can choose whatever width you want as long as it's a 700c tire and as long as it's not so wide that it rubs against your frame. Common 700c tire widths (different brands and models of tires come in different widths) include 23mm, 25mm, 28mm, 32mm, and sometimes 38mm and wider.

Typically, you would use a wider tire to get a softer, more comfortable ride and some additional flat tire protection, and you would use a narrower tire to get more performance and to save some weight. It's really just up to how you want your bicycle to ride. If you ride off road the wider tires are good for more traction, too.

Now, for a good source for bike tires you can try BikeTiresDirect. They often have good specials.

Have fun!

Jim

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Q&A: Frozen carbon seatpost, front derailleur trouble, new helmet?

Q: Hope you can help, Jim. The local bike shop cannot remove the Campagnolo carbon seatpost from my Litespeed. They have lubed it and heated the seat tube of the frame and still can't budge it. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ed

A: It'll sound a little strange, Ed, but you can try removing the crankset and bottom bracket from the frame. Then tip the bike upside down and pour some Coke (yes, the drink), down the seat tube of the frame with a funnel to get plenty in there. Now leave your bike upside down with the Coke in there and wait a few days and if you're really lucky, the Coke will penetrate and break the corrosion that has bonded the seatpost to your frame. You can tap on the frame and the seatpost with a rubber mallet (don't damage anything) to vibrate the parts and get the Coke to work its way in between. You can also try ammonia but Coke is safer to handle.

If that doesn't work, you could try freezing the seat tube of the frame with some dry ice, which might do it, too. And, I'm sure you already know that you can cut the post out, too, though that's a pain that takes a bit of work and time. You would cut off the top of the post and then either machine the seatpost out with a bit the same diameter as the post, or you would cut the post with a hacksaw that fits inside the post by making vertical cuts around it until you can break out slices of the post and eventually get the whole thing out. A lot of work, but doable. Wear a good face mask, though. You don't want to breathe carbon dust.

I'll keep my fingers crossed that the Coke trick works for you,
Jim
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Q: Jim - When shifting from the big ring to the small ring on my triathlon bike (Felt B2) the chain will sometimes drop off the big chainring but not engage the small chainring. It will stay up against the side of the big ring and I can spin the cranks freely like I've shifted into neutral! The motor (me) is disengaged from the transmission and there is no power to the rear wheel. It's very frustrating and when it happens I've got to shift back to the big ring and try again (as I start uphill, or fall off my rollers!).

The front derailleur is a Shimano Dura-Ace, the chain is a Shimano Ultegra 10 speed and the crankset and rings are FSA SLK 53/39. The shifting is friction, not indexed. If an agressive shift is used to throw the chain over farther, faster, the chain may drop (off the inside ring). I've always heard that double front chainrings are simpler and more trouble free than triple, but I never had problems with my road bike (triple) like I've had with this. I've been told to ease up on the pedals to reduce chain tension, (but that's not always gonna happen) Can this be fixed?

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

A: Thanks for writing, Aaron. It's essential to ease up on front shifts so that would be the first thing to try. You should always take all pressure off the pedals when shifting the front derailleur. Any other shifting technique is asking for trouble. The jumps between rings are just too big and the power you can put on the chain and rings is just too extreme. Keep in mind that when you push on the pedals the chain becomes a solid steel bar and it does NOT want to move sideways. It's only when you take all the pressure off that the chain gets flexible and has the sideways lateral play to shift smoothly from ring to ring. Experienced racers know this and even in the heat of a race, if they're smart, they will baby the front shifts to ensure no problems. Doing anything else is risking losing the race.

Having said all that, front derailleurs are among the most difficult parts to adjust on a bicycle and even pro mechanics have trouble with it. You might find that if you bring your bike to an expert mechanic they can solve the problem by fine-tuning the front derailleur (a common mistake is incorrect positioning on the frame - see diagram). Be sure to explain to them the problems you're having and also insist that they take a real test ride to experience the shifting on the road, not just on the repair stand. If they balk at this request, or seem disinterested, find a shop that really wants to figure out the problem and help you out. And, even if they're super nice and helpful, if they can't fix the problem, you should consider trying another mechanic to see if he/she has more experience with front derailleurs. (They seem simple, but they're anything but.)

One more thing to check is your cable. If it's sticky (like would happen if energy drink dripped on the frame and got on the cable or the cable guides), that will make the derailleur shift slowly or even not at all. Cleaning and lubing the cable is easy and might also solve the problem if you have a sticky cable. It could be worn or rusty, too. If so, replace it.

The whole thing could very well be your shifting technique, though, so you should try shifting with finesse and seeing if that solves the problem right away. It might. Good luck!

Jim
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Q: Howdy Jim,
The foam pads on my Giro Transit II (mfg. date March 04) helmet have become so stinky that when sweat drips down over them onto my face, I can hardly stand it. I live in Santa Cruz, CA, not too far from Bell Sports, the company that makes Giro helmets, so I called them about replacement pads and they told me they are unavailable. Furthermore, they told me that the helmet should be replaced every 3 years anyway, because the material breaks down and is no longer safe. This is nuts! Is it not possible to design a good helmet that will last longer than 3 years? I'm sure thousands of years from now, Giro/Bell will be well-represented and studied by archaeologists digging through the mountainous middens of debris created by our throwaway culture. Any thoughts on the short life-cycle of the bicycle helmet?

Cheers,
David

A: Thanks for the great questions, David. Here's what I'd do: take your helmet on down to the great folks at the Spokesman in Santa Cruz and ask if by chance they can break out their replacement pads box and see if they have any old pads you can put in your helmet. That's what I did not too long ago on my 4-year-old Giro and they had just what I needed - the exactly right pads. I think the pads cost me about $5, a lot less than a helmet.

And, yes, the helmet companies say you have to replace the helmets for max safety, but most riders don't... especially with the escalating cost of the fancier helmets. Maybe in the worst accident you'd be at more risk, but I haven't seen any scientific proof of this. It sounds logical because the impact material in the helmets is polystyrene foam that protects less over time supposedly, but I don't really know if it's true. If you'd like to learn a lot more about helmets and possibly the facts on how long they will protect you you might visit the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute a good online resource.

I think the Spokesman will be able to help you out.
Jim
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NEWSWIRE: ToC Blog, Book Reviewed, Lube contin.

You may already know that the Tour of California, the most important race in America, commences in Sacramento on February 14 and will race right into my home town of Santa Cruz on the 16th. This is a huge deal for us and we're all working to promote the race and make it a success so it comes back again. For my part, I've begun blogging about the race for local Internet provider Cruzio.com and I wanted to give you the link so you can follow along (screenshot above). I'll take a local perspective on the race and keep it fun. Let me know if there's anything you'd like me to cover...............In other blog news of a commercial nature, I was delighted to see that top NorCal racer Michael Hernandez who blogs for the NorCalCyclingNews has some great things to say about my Your Home Bicycle Workshop book. I wanted to share his kind words (scroll a bit) and use this space to thank him, too. Appreciate the support, Michael...............Also, a reader added a great tip you might want to try in my post about chain lubing. He suggests simply using car wax to lube your chain. Scroll to the lube post and read the comments to get the whole story, and post your comments if you try it to let us know how you like it.

Have a nice cycling weekend!

Jim

Wax-based chain lubes?

Question 1: I know that paraffin wax is often used on some metal surfaces such as drill bits and saw blades to keep them sharp and to prevent corrosion. I talked with a beekeeper and I was told that beeswax is actually best for these purposes. I have heard that some chain lubes contain some wax, is this true? How can this wax retain its liquid properties? I also heard that some people dip their bike chains in wax. Does this help? I cleaned my chain thoroughly and applied a stick of beeswax to it as I rotated the chain. I also applied wax to my cogs. Should I also apply some oil to my chain or is the beeswax alone sufficient?

Appreciate it,
Joe

Q 2: Jim - As a general rule, things are pretty dry out here where I ride in Denver, so I don’t need an extreme lube. I also like to keep my drivetrain pretty clean. Thus, I like some of the wax-based lubes. I really like how clean White Lightning is, but it dries out and begins chirping like after two rides. I just tried another dry lube by SRAM, and it held up a little longer, but it seems to attract gunk more like a wet lube. What’s your favorite lube?

Thanks,
Paul

A: Good questions, guys. Whether or not a wax-based bicycle lube, or basic paraffin will work as a bicycle chain lube depends mostly on where and how you ride. Wax is best for relatively dry, clean climates and on bikes that aren't ridden in the rain or wet.

If those are your conditions, Joe, an easy way to try a bicycle chain wax and see if you like it is to get some White Lightning Clean Ride, which is a popular self-cleaning wax lube. It's self-cleaning because you apply it to your chain and let it dry overnight. The next morning the chain is dry and as you ride, the wax build-up on the chain chips off in small flakes (don't worry, there's still wax on there lubing the drivetrain). As you apply more wax when you need it and keep riding, any old grime on your chain chips off until you're left with an almost white chain that's completely lubricated with the Clean Ride wax lube. You can also lubricate your cassette cogs with it.

I live in Santa Cruz, California where it is dry most of the year and I've used White Lightning on bikes I only ride on dry days and it works just fine. You should give it a try if you live in a dry area and don't get caught in the rain often, and see how it works for you.

You mentioned beeswax. I haven't tried that as a chain lube, but there are cyclists who believe you should use paraffin from the grocery store. They heat the paraffin to melt it and put the chain in the hot paraffin until it gets hot, too. That causes the paraffin to penetrate the chain nicely and get enough lube on and in it. They then remove the chain so the excess wax drips off, the rest dries on the chain, and they install the chain on the bike. A wax job like this could give you a month's worth of lube if you stay out of the rain and dirt. But, it is easiest if you have a connecting "master" link on your chain like the Wipperman Connex link . If not, you'll need to push out a pin and use a replacement pin each time you remove your chain to give it the hot wax treatment. That's not really recommended since every time the chain comes apart you need another new pin and you can damage links if you're not good with your chain tool.

You can certainly try rubbing the paraffin or your beeswax on the chain and cogs, but that will only get a light layer on the outside surfaces. You need to lube the inside too, where the links and rollers wear on each other. That's why you heat the chain and wax to get it to flow inside and all over, too.

You don't have to heat the chain to lube it with White Lightning because it has a carrier in it that keeps the wax liquid enough to penetrate the chain as is.

So, ultimately, if you're interested in waxing your chain, you should give White Lightning a try because it's easy to use and effective. I think you'll like it - as long as you don't live where you have to ride in the rain a lot.

If, like Paul, though, you discover that the wax lubes you try leave your chain squeaking in short order, I recommend another lube. I actually used White Lightning for a long time back in the mid 1990s but eventually got tired of the chirping when it ran out while I was on rides.

So, now I use Pro Gold ProLink. I've had good luck with it. To apply, you put a drop on each link at night, then wipe off the excess in the morning and you should get about 2 weeks out of it before you need to apply more. (Depending on how often you ride and your riding conditions, of course.)

The ProLink isn't perfect. You still have to clean your chain once in awhile, but I just do it by applying some more lube and wiping the chain and rings down well. As long as you keep it wiped clean like this and don't put on too much, it should work great for you, preventing squeaking, providing a nice, smooth ride and ensuring your chain, cogs and chainrings last as long as possible. I learned about Pro Gold from Uncle Al at RoadBikeRider.com. He swears by it and he rides in Montrose, Colorado.

There are other great lubes available from a variety of makers like Pedro's or Finish Line, so if wax or ProLink isn't right for you, check with your riding buddies and see what they like or visit your local bicycle shop and ask what they recommend, too. Sometimes it takes a little experimentation to find a lube you love.

Jim

Q&A: Pulley puzzle, waterlogged carbon frame

Q: I recently disassembled my rear derailleur’s bottom cage (Shimano Dura Ace). Got confident and no reason other than looking for a challenge and something to use my tools on. I removed the bottom cage, both pulleys and cleaned the entire system. Well worth the effort. I believe I have reassembled everything correctly, as I followed the spec. diagram provided on the Shimano website and instructions from your bike repair book. However, I now get a bit of vibration from my system when on the first and second smallest cogs (11T & 12T). I can’t figure out what is causing this.

Look forward to your response.
Fred

A: Nice to hear from you, Fred. The rear derailleur cage and pulleys aren't overly complicated but there are some things that can go "wrong" during disassembly and cleaning and reinstallation, if you're not careful. First, it's a great maintenance job to do. A lot of people wait until the pulley bushings/bearings are dry and they hear the chirp, chirp sound that drives you crazy. Doing it routinely is much wiser and ensures your pedaling is silky smooth and efficient. It's even possible for pulleys to "freeze" and create a lot of additional pedaling resistance and you don't want that. Also, while you can spray or drip lube on the pulleys, even if you're careful and lay the bike on its side and get the lube to enter the sides of the pulleys where they turn on the bushings, it's difficult to get the lube to fully penetrate the pulleys and thoroughly lube them (though that technique is better than letting them dry out). Ideally, you'll disassemble and relube at least yearly.

Since you followed a diagram, you probably didn't make this mistake, but I sometimes see the cage put on upside down. The closed/loop end of the cage should be on the bottom. Another easy mistake is to put the top pulley on the bottom and the bottom on the top. The top pulley has sideways play to assist in aligning the chain during shifting, so that needs to be on top. You can wiggle the pulleys to tell the difference. Another issue is assembling the pulleys incorrectly. Usually there's just the pulley, a ceramic bushing that presses into the center and 2 dust caps. All should be cleaned, lightly lubed and reassembled. You should then hold the pulley by the dustcaps with your thumb and forefinger holding it the way it will be held in the derailleur cage and then spin the pulley to make sure that it spins nice and smooth with little resistance. If not, take it apart, clean it some more, lube it and try again.

Once the pulleys are cleaned and lubed, reinstall them. And, here there is an option, too. They can go on in two directions, the way they were, or flipped the other way. Ideally you'll put them back the way they were as you have worn them in in this direction so they're sort of "adjusted" now to this rotation of the chain.

So, if the cage is not upside down, the most likely thing is that the pulleys might be reversed, top on the bottom. If that's not it, it might be that the pulleys are flipped over and now rotating in a different direction, or maybe only one pulley is. The easy way to try to find the issue is to check each thing and then try the next. So, I would check the cage, then check that the top pulley is on top. Then I would try flipping the bottom pulley and see if that solves the problem. If there's no change, I'd put it back the way it was and flip the other pulley, and hopefully that will do the trick.

All of this assumes that the issue really is the pulleys or cage because if you maybe cleaned the chain, too, that could be the issue. Or, if the pulleys are worn out, cleaning them reduces their size slightly and you might need to replace the pulleys to fix the problem. The easiest way to spot worn out pulleys is to compare yours to new ones in a nice big picture of a new derailleur online. Old pulleys have noticeably worn teeth compared to new ones.

Hope these tips result in a nice, quiet and smooth drivetrain!
Jim
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Q: Hi Jim -
I have a carbon frame and I have been riding regularly in heavy rain. No matter how many times I turn the bike upside down (with the seatpost removed), I can't get all the water out. There's also a screw on the bottom bracket cable guide. I removed that to let the water out, but no luck. I've also let my bike stand for days at a time with the seatpost removed, in the hope that the water would evaporate. Also no luck. I have tried to blow air with my mouth in the frame's seat tube to see if I was missing a hole somewhere, but I was not able to. It seems pretty airtight. I would appreciate any suggestions to get the water out.

Many thanks,
Hans

A: You might try using a hair dryer to blow hot air into/onto the tubes with any water or condensation in them. Storing the bike in a warm room might have the same effect, though it will take longer. You could also remove the bottom bracket, which is relatively easy if you have a newer external-bearing bottom bracket. You just need the right tool to remove the cups. Your local bike shop probably sells it. Once the cups are removed and the seatpost, too, the air should be able to pass through better and reach any moisture in the seat tube and it might have access to the other tubes to dry them out, too, depending on the frame construction.

It would also be worthwhile to try to figure out how the water is getting into the frame and trying to seal the entry points to keep it out. It might be that the water is being flung up onto the seatpost from the rear wheel and it's then running down the post and getting down inside the frame through the gap between the post and the frame, which is a common way water gets inside bicycles. You could try making a simple seal out of a section cut from an old tire inner tube. It needs to be a tight fit. Remove your seatpost and slip this "seal" over the seatpost. Then install the seatpost and tighten it at the right height again. Then pull the seal down and over the seat lug area so the bottom has a "shingle" effect and the water runs down harmlessly on the outside of the frame. To seal the deal further you could zip tie the top or even wrap it with electrical tape and then zip tie it. Something like this should seal out the water. Another approach would be to always ride with a quick-connect rear fender to keep the water from spraying up onto the seatpost from the rear wheel.

The good news is that the water shouldn't do any damage to your all-carbon frame, but if it gets in contact with any metal parts it can corrode them. But, at least the frame won't be harmed as a steel frame would by exposure to water inside the tubes.

Hope this helps dry out your frame and keep it that way,
Jim

Cycling Artists Ines Brunn & Serge Huercio

There's riding a bicycle, and then there's cycling magic, as shown here by artistic cyclist and nuclear physicist, Ines Brunn... ballet on wheels and wonderful. She started training at 4 years old and believe it or not, is currently ranked only 19th in the world.

Visit Ines' website at www.trick-bike.com

The fine print: if the Ines video does not play here, please follow this link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiE1Qm7HSd8

And, Ines is probably 19th in the world because of riders like Serge Huercio:



If the Huercio video isn't working, visit this link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhjYQFDNXps

Bicycle Gift Ideas

With another pre-holiday weekend upon us, here are just a few bicycle gift suggestions I think most cyclists will like. First, is Jan Heine's second coffee-table bike book, The Competition Bicycle, A Photographic History, which, in 176 large-format (12 x 14) glossy pages, covers 34 stunning racing bicycles from over 100 years of competition around the world. Almost all are the actual bikes raced, often pulled right out from under the pro and put away for posterity. Photographer Jean-Pierre Praderes has an expert eye for the important details and the shooting skills to bring the machines to life. And Heine is passionate about cycling and explains the significance of all the changes over the years and, just as fascinating, puts each bike in context with insightful stories about the racers and races that made history, like the rivalry between Coppi and Bartali in 1949. The Competition Bicycle is available for $60 from Vintage Bicycle Press http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/CompetitionBook.html While you're there, check out Jan's equally impressive book, The Golden Age of Handbuilt Bicycles, and consider gifting your cyclist a subscription to Jan's fine magazine Bicycle Quarterly.

Speaking of giving books, if someone on your list enjoys maintaining and working on bikes as much as riding them, they'll enjoy my new e-book, Your Home Bicycle Workshop ($19.95). This is not a bike-repair manual, it's a guide to setting up an efficient and organized home shop to make working on bikes as easy and fun as possible. I spent 6 months writing the book and shooting the photos, however the advice and tips in it come from over 30 years working in the bike industry as a mechanic and service manager. I cover how to choose a good space for a workshop, buying and building workbenches, budget home-made repairs stands and pro models, truing jigs, provide the most comprehensive tool and parts list you'll find and much more. I also include some vintage illustrations from my collections to add interest and fun. Also, the book is an e-book, which means you download it to your computer and can burn it to disc for easy gift giving. And, as an e-book, it's full of links, you can zoom in on photos to see all the details and you can easily print the book, too. You can learn a lot more, see sample pages, and buy it here http://www.roadbikerider.com/hbw_page.htm You'll also find gift certificates and an entire e-bookstore at RoadBikeRider.com where there are plenty of other gift ideas.

At the Interbike Bicycle Show this year, I spotted an inexpensive gift idea any cyclist will appreciate, CycleAware's $15.95 Stow-Away - The Reflective Packable Backpack. Here's how I wrote it up for the show: Let's face it, jersey pockets are handy, but easily overstuffed. Enter CycleAware's Stow-Away. This featherweight mesh/nylon bag folds into its own pouch and fits into any pocket. Then, when you need a place to stuff your leg warmers, jacket, gloves, that lost garden gnome you found next to the road; simply remove the Stow-Away, open it up and it turns into a mesh backpack. The airy mesh ensures your back stays dry and you remain cool and comfy, and inside you'll find a built-in ID card, a key ring and ample space for all your gear. Plus, the straps are soft, there's a sternum clip to keep them in place and there's a large reflective panel for safety. It's so handy every cyclist should have one.

Another super handy item is the Knog Frog, a very cool safety light that's small, flexible and light enough to mount almost anywhere, such as on a seatpost, helmet, frame, handlebar, pack, etc. This is possible because the Frog is made of stretchy, tough, silicone and has a simple clip closure. Just stretch the Frog's "legs" around anything, hook them on the clip and the Frog sticks in place beautifully. It has a bright LED visible from 600 meters away, flashing and steady modes, over 160-hour run time, and is powered by 2 CR2032 batteries, which are included. Frogs also come in many colors. Most bike shops stock them and they sell for around $15. http://www.knog.com.au/

Also seen at the Interbike show last fall, were Bar Mitts, a nice gift idea for the winter road warrior. Similar to the hand warmers motorcyclists use, Bar Mitts slip over your bike's dropped handlebars and levers forming cozy neoprene pouches that block the wind and wet to keep you dry and warm. They're easy to install and remove and do a nice job keeping numb fingers or worse at bay. You do have to get used to having your hands inside pouches but it's possible to brake and shift even with your hands outside the Bar Mitts so it won't take you long to get used to them and you'll appreciate the additional protection and the quality construction. Cost is $64.95 from http://www.barmitts.com/.

And, lastly, this gift idea is for someone who already has a pro-level bike workshop (or is planning one), complete with an air compressor for inflating tires the easy and fast way. Typically, air compressors come with simple chucks that let you inflate car and bike tires with Schrader valves. When you need to inflate tires with Presta valves, you must screw an adapter onto the valve or you might have one that you've attached to the chuck. Either way, it's an extra step. Also, most chucks do not include gauges so there's no easy way to tell if you've got the pressure right. So, you have to take another extra step and double check with a separate gauge. Things get much simpler when you have the Presta Inflator http://www.prestaflator.com/ $39.95. This beautifully engineered upgrade fits Presta and Schrader valves, has an accurate, easy-to-read color-coded gauge, and is built of heavy-duty steel to last. Plus, it works like a variable-speed drill. The more you squeeze the handle, the faster you inflate the tire, so you will never blow a tire off a rim again. The Presta Inflator folks also stock a full selection of replacement parts and even other chucks your giftee might like. This is one cool tool, so nice that apparently Trek bicycle company equipped all its benches with them.

I hope these gift ideas are helpful. If none seem right for your cyclist, be sure to visit or call your local bike shop where you're sure to find many more great ideas from maintenance packages, to clothing, to the latest components and accessories. Remember that even something as simple and affordable as a new pair of socks or gloves is sure to please, too. Happy cycling holidays!
Jim