Q&A: Seatpost binder bolt torque, creaky seat, bent derailleur hanger

Q: I just overtightened a seatpost clamp and stripped the threads. I got a new one now. How much torque can I put on this clamp? I have a Thomson aluminum seatpost.

Thanks,
Steve

A: Hi Steve,
Unfortunately it's not easy to give you a torque and be sure that it's right for your frame, clamp and bolt. I wouldn't tighten it with a torque wrench unless I had the information from the company that made those parts. Instead, what I'd do is make sure the bolt is lubed with grease, and then tighten it carefully. It only needs to be tight enough to hold the seatpost from slipping. You tighten the bolt and then you test your seatpost tightness by grabbing the seat and trying to turn it to see if the post is tight yet. Overtightening is very common so go a little at a time until the seatpost is held fast. That's the best way to go about it. If you have a torque wrench you could then check to find out what torque you tightened it to and then use your torque wrench in the future since you have a number for your exact setup.

If you would like to investigate torque settings further, there is a good page on Park Tool's site here: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=88 In it they recommend 36
to 60 inch pounds of torque for seatpost binder bolts, but caution to use care. Also the seatpost bolt torque is marked as coming from Campagnolo, so it may not be correct for your frame, bolt and clamp.

Tightening carefully is the best way to go usually,
Jim
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Q: Hi Jim,
I emailed you some time ago in relation to a creaking seat, which I've now managed to solve. FYI, It turns out the Fizik Arione saddle with Ti rails sits on a FSA Carbon K-Force seatpost had gathered dust under the aluminium cradle and was causing the creak. I stripped the seatpost and applied Silicon spray to the area, dried it completely and now presto, no noise.

In any case, Jim I'm emailing you since last week I fell off my bike onto tram lines here in Melbourne, Australia (we have plenty of them). It was a cold and miserable day and I got caught in the rain and my front wheel slipped on the wet track and down I went.

I took the bike to my mechanic. It is a carbon fibre Basso Laguna. The rear derailleur appears to be ok, though the mechanic mentioned that this had been the third time he had to straighten the rear dropout/hanger. He suggested I would need to get a new one, but I can't seem to find one here in Australia. The local distributor is away at the Taiwan bike show and not contactable. Any suggestions? Do you think after 3 alignments, the hanger would need replacing?

Regards,
Tony

A: Happy to hear about your seat (thanks for sharing the tip), but sorry to hear about your crash, Tony. Glad you're okay. The mechanic who fixed the derailleur hanger should have a feel for how weak it is now. They get weaker with each alignment but as long as they stay stiff enough to hold the derailleur steady they will keep working. I would think you could keep
riding with it and in the meantime order a backup so that you can change it out when that comes in. The company I know that makes the best assortment is Wheels Manufacturing. Your bike shop should be able to order from them (they don't sell direct to consumers). You could also order them online at http://www.derailleurhanger.com/

I like to keep a backup on hand for my Cervelo and I'd recommend you get one to be safe should your bike start shifting poorly, a sign that the hanger is too soft and getting bent with every little bump.

Hope this helps,
Jim
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Q&A: Indoor trainers, Cliff House tandem

Q: Hi Jim - I have an indoor trainer question that I always wanted to ask. How tight should you crank the roller against the tire? I think that I probably have it too tight.

Thanks!

DP

A: That's a good question because it's easy to get it too loose or too tight and how you set it effects traction and tire wear. Ideally you want to get it just tight enough so that the roller doesn't lose traction when you pedal hard. If you get squeaking it's because it's not tight enough and the tire is slipping. (Be sure to first fully inflate your tire.)

Of course, whether it squeaks or not during pedaling depends on how hard you ride on your trainer. If you apply steady pressure on the pedals the roller usually won't slip even if it's not overly tight. But, if you're doing repeats (intervals) on the trainer, where you ride easy then accelerate hard, and repeat, you will need it tighter against the tire so it doesn't slip.

I usually make sure my tires are fully inflated, mount the bike on the trainer and then screw the roller against the tire (I ride a Kurt Kinetic Rock & Roll Trainer). I then grab the wheel and pull it up and down, and tighten the roller until there's no slipping at all. At this setting you'll have the traction needed without pressing the roller so tighly against the tire that you wear it out too soon.

Keep in mind that all trainers wear tires more quickly so I now use a special tire made only for trainer use, Continental's Home Trainer. It's made of a harder rubber designed to hold up to the trainer roller so that you can save your good tires for road riding (the Home Trainer is not for outdoor use). Some people simply install inexpensive tires on their bike for use on the trainer instead.

You didn't ask me about something else that's also important, and that's how tightly you mount your bike in the trainer. Most have adjustable mounts that hold the rear end of the bicycle off the ground by clamping the rear wheel quick release. It's important not to set this clamp too tight too. The way to get it right is to check how easily the wheel spins once you've mounted your bike in the trainer but before you've tightened the roller against the tire. Just give the wheel a push and make sure it spins freely. If it moves 1/2 turn and stops, it's probably because you have your bike clamped in the trainer too tightly.

It's pretty easy on most of them to set the clamp so that it puts so much pressure on your bike that it actually tightens the hub bearings on your rear wheel. That will make it harder to pedal and it can also cause bearing damage, so check for that and fine-tune your trainer clamp until it holds the bicycle securely but doesn't compress the bearings.

Lastly, people sometimes ask me if trainers can hurt bicycles. They worry that the bike is held in such a way that you might put forces on the bike on the trainer that could weaken or damage the frame or parts. It's a good question because there are all kinds of different trainer designs, but I've never seen one that could hurt your bike as long as you follow the instructions and mount your bike correctly. As I mentioned, you can wear tires more quickly and put too much pressure on the rear wheel bearings, but the frame and components aren't at risk from the trainer. You should take one precaution, though. Be sure to drape a towel over your bike if you're riding hard enough to start sweating because that can drip on your frame and components and over time, damage things via corrosion.

To great indoor rides!

Jim

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Q: Hi Jim,

I maintain a website about the famous Cliff House and I found a bicycle photo I was wondering if you could help me with. I'm curious what's with the double handlebar? FYI: This photo was definitely taken between 1896 and 1907 (based on the building).

Thanks for any help you can provide. I'll add it to the photo.

Gary

A: Cool photo, Gary. There are 2 handlebars on that bike because it's a tandem bike, a bicycle built for two. It's hard to see because it blends in with the man's clothes, but there's also a second seat on the bike. So, I would call that a circa 1900 men's tandem bicycles. One of the interesting features of tandems of this era is that they are steered by the person in back.

Today's tandem bikes are almost always steered from the front. To steer it from the back, the one in your photo has a linkage that lets the rear handlebars move the front wheel. You can see the linkage bar on the side of the frame. The person in front just goes along for the ride as the person in back steers. The people that rode this tandem had to be pretty darn fit because it only has one sprocket on the back and it's pretty small meaning a hard-to-pedal gear, especially if they were to have to ride up any of San Francisco's steep hills.

Those are a few notes that I hope are helpful. I'm afraid I can't see anything on the bike that tips me off to the brand or model. I would say that the man is dressed very nicely in cycling knickers, knee socks, leather shoes, gloves and a tidy cap. He appears to have the latest cycling fashions and may have been fairly well-to-do since the tandem and the cycling gear was expensive even in 1900, and a way to show off your stature in society. I suspect he was riding with another man, though, not a woman, since the front of the bike is a man's frame. If he was with a woman, the front of the bike would have had a sloping frame for the woman to get on and off easily.

If anyone sees this and can identify the make of the bike I'll keep you posted,

Jim

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Q&A: Broken spokes on the road, 3-sp shifter, brake pads for wet weather

Q: Jim - good morning. I recently broke a non drive-side spoke on my Shimano Dura-Ace rear wheel on a ride. I was wondering if you had a source for replacement spokes and any advice on dealing with this when you're out on a ride. I had to call home for a ride since the wheel was too warped to straighten with the spoke missing.

Thank you
Chris


A: Hi Chris,
With all the low spoke-count wheels on the road today, broken spokes are more of a problem. When we had 32 spokes on most wheels you could break a spoke and still get home because there were enough other spokes to keep the wheel from coming too far out of true. As you discovered with your wheel, today's aero hoops go a lot more out of true when a spoke breaks and it can make the wheel wobble so badly it hits the frame rendering your bicycle unrideable, meaning you have to call for help.

I often ride with friends and we're all on modern low spoke-count wheels so I try to always carry a repair spoke called a FiberFix (photo). It's essentially a super-strong little aramid-fiber "cable" and end, that fits almost all wheels and takes the place of the broken spoke, allowing you to retension the wheel and keep riding. You can learn all about the FiberFix spoke and order one at Peter White's great site.

If you don't have something like this on a ride, you can sometimes temporarily fix a broken spoke if you're lucky. It depends on how/where the spoke broke, but if you can tie the ends of the spoke together by bending them and joining them with a piece of wire/string/zip tie (from your repair kit or found beside the road), or whatever you have handy, you might be able to get the wheel true enough to at least keep riding on it.

Now, on getting a replacement spoke, I'd recommend buying several so you have backups next time. You could try your local bike shop. Or, if they don't have them and your Shimano wheels are new, you might start by calling Shimano's tech line, telling them what happened and asking them if they could get you spokes 949.951.5003. The spokes aren't supposed to break and I think they'll be eager to get you setup with a replacements if you have new Dura-Ace wheels. You can tell them you already went to local bike shops and they didn't have the spokes.

Or, if your local bike shop has Shimano Dura-Ace wheels for sale, you could try asking them if they'd be willing to rob a spoke for you. If they're the shop where you bought the wheel that's not too much to ask and it's no big deal to remove and replace one spoke.

I don't know if they carry the DA spokes, but I've also had good luck with ExcelSports.com when I need specialty parts not available locally. You can call them at 800.627.6664.

Another workaround if you need it that might work is to see if a regular spoke can be put in for now. The first thing would be to unscrew the DA spoke at the rim and see if a basic DT spoke will thread into the DA nipple in the rim. If it does, you can try this: Find a shop with a Phil Wood spoke tool - a professional tool some shops have that puts perfect threads on spokes. If you can find one, they should be able to use it to make you a spoke that will work temporarily. The DA spokes are threaded on both ends. So they can take the tool and take a nice DT spoke and cut the head off and thread that end, too. This way you'll have a spoke threaded on both ends that should fit the nipples on your DA wheel. (Of course, this assumes that the nipples didn't break.)

One of these ideas should get you going. Good luck!
Jim
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Q: My friend has a cool old Japanese 3-speed bicycle missing the trigger shifter. Will an old Sturmey-Archer trigger shifter work, or is the cable pull different?

A: The answer to your question depends on what type of 3-speed hub you have on that Japanese bike. The easiest way to tell is to look at the way the shift cable connects. If it's connected to a little threaded rod with small chain links on it (what Sturmey called the indicator - see photo), you should have a Japanese clone of a Sturmey-Archer hub and I believe a Sturmey trigger will work. The cable will have the correct end at the handlebar, too (long, cylindrical) to fit in the Sturmey trigger and the trigger should pull the right amount of cable with each click.

But, if you see what's referred to as a "toggle" mechanism attached to the rear axle, a small knuckle-like metal apparatus that the cable attaches to, the handlebar end of the cable will not work in the Sturmey shifter, so you'll need to search for a Shimano-type shifter.

Hope this helps,
Jim
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Q: Hello Jim – I commute to work via bike several times a week. As you are aware on a road bike when it rains or on wet pavement the brakes will slow but not stop. Is it possible or advisable to use the longer mountain bike brake pads? I have Shimano 105 brakes, 9 speed drivetrain w/ triple, 700x25 tires, Mavic rims.

Regards,
David

A: Hi David,
I wouldn't recommending going to longer/larger pads, as they usually won't fit very well with the tighter clearance on road bikes. Instead, I would try some brake pads made for wet weather as they are designed to grip better when it's rainy. You might try Kool Stop pads and see if they don't work a lot better than what you have.

A lot of bike shops carry these pads, so you might be able to find them locally with a few phone calls. And, they'll slip right into your brake pad holders. You want the pads that fit your Shimano 105 brakes and the models made for wet weather.

Be sure to clean your rims regularly when you ride in the rain a lot, too, as the crud and grime from the wet roads can leave a residue on the rims that reduces friction. Simple rubbing alcohol works great. Just wet a rag with it and wipe the rims completely on both sides and that'll keep the rims nice and grippy.

To better rainy-day braking,
Jim
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Q&A: Torque Wrenches, tires sizes and sources

Q: Jim,
Just got a new Giant racing bicycle (love it) and have been out on a maiden voyage. The frameset and many of the components are made of carbon and I am concerned about getting the torques right as I make adjustments and repairs. Do you recommend a bike-specific torque wrench (Park has one in the $40 range), or can I just go pick one up at Sears and get the same thing?

Thanks,
Chris

A: Good question, Chris. Yes, I definitely recommend a torque wrench for caring for carbon bicycles and carbon components. These bikes and parts have a different feel than steel and aluminum ones and the only way to get the tightness right is by reading the instructions or looking on the components to find the recommended torque (often written on the parts), and using a torque wrench to get the bolts just tight enough.

Also, in my experience with these super bikes, things tend to loosen more and need regular checking. Anytime you're installing a new part or making adjustments, getting the torque right will ensure you never break or damage anything, which can save you a lot of money when you consider how expensive most carbon bikes and parts are.

I have 2 Park torque wrenches, like them and recommend them. The ones I have are bar-type wrenches that have an indicator needle that points at a little scale on the tool as you torque the bolt (photo). Park also shows a new click-type tool on their site that they say will be available in April. Click-type wrenches are set to the torque you require and when you're tightening the bolt, the wrench makes a click you can hear and feel when the bolt is tightened right so you can't overtighten it.

While you can get torque wrenches from places like Sears and The Home Depot and Harbor Freight, etc., I recommend bike-specific ones because most general torque wrenches are made for car work so they often provide a ton of leverage with long handles. That's not ideal for bike use where you often have to reach into small places and where you don't ever want to overtighten or break things with too much power. So, I would look for one that's not too big and that measures in inch pounds and Newton meters since bike parts are usually marked that way. The Park models do this and work fine.

Another wrench you might like is the Giustaforza, a $150 Italian bicycle-specific model that I reviewed a while bike and now keep in my toolbox because it's so handy. Here's a link where you can order it. Another one that's very low tech but does work for most stem/bars with basic 4mm bolts is Ritchey's Torque Key. It's preset and only does 5 Newton meters but that's right for most bolts and most Ritchey stuff. It only has the 4mm Allen bit, though, so it's not that versatile, but if you have only, or mostly 4mm Allen bolts it could work. It's $20 and is a click-type tool small enough to take anywhere.

If you're interested in reading many more tips about caring for carbon bicycles and components, visit this link,

To proper torquing,
Jim

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Q: Hi Jim,

I need to change the tyre of my bike and I'd like to order it online. I'll be able to fit it myself but I'm not sure which size is the right one. If I read the number on the old front tyre it says 700 x 38c. This is a normal tyre, while at the back I have an anti-puncture Schwalbe tyre, and the size on it is 700 x 32c. So now I'm confused. Which size should I get: 700 x 38c or 700 x 32c? And, where can I buy it online?

Hope you can help,
Antonell

A: Hi Antonell,
Your tire sizes of 700 x 38c and 700 x 32c mean that they are both the same diameter (700c) but that one is 38mm wide and the other is 32mm wide. In other words, you have one tire wider than the other tire.

It's actually up to you how wide you want your tires to be. You can choose whatever width you want as long as it's a 700c tire and as long as it's not so wide that it rubs against your frame. Common 700c tire widths (different brands and models of tires come in different widths) include 23mm, 25mm, 28mm, 32mm, and sometimes 38mm and wider.

Typically, you would use a wider tire to get a softer, more comfortable ride and some additional flat tire protection, and you would use a narrower tire to get more performance and to save some weight. It's really just up to how you want your bicycle to ride. If you ride off road the wider tires are good for more traction, too.

Now, for a good source for bike tires you can try BikeTiresDirect. They often have good specials.

Have fun!

Jim

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Q&A: Frozen carbon seatpost, front derailleur trouble, new helmet?

Q: Hope you can help, Jim. The local bike shop cannot remove the Campagnolo carbon seatpost from my Litespeed. They have lubed it and heated the seat tube of the frame and still can't budge it. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ed

A: It'll sound a little strange, Ed, but you can try removing the crankset and bottom bracket from the frame. Then tip the bike upside down and pour some Coke (yes, the drink), down the seat tube of the frame with a funnel to get plenty in there. Now leave your bike upside down with the Coke in there and wait a few days and if you're really lucky, the Coke will penetrate and break the corrosion that has bonded the seatpost to your frame. You can tap on the frame and the seatpost with a rubber mallet (don't damage anything) to vibrate the parts and get the Coke to work its way in between. You can also try ammonia but Coke is safer to handle.

If that doesn't work, you could try freezing the seat tube of the frame with some dry ice, which might do it, too. And, I'm sure you already know that you can cut the post out, too, though that's a pain that takes a bit of work and time. You would cut off the top of the post and then either machine the seatpost out with a bit the same diameter as the post, or you would cut the post with a hacksaw that fits inside the post by making vertical cuts around it until you can break out slices of the post and eventually get the whole thing out. A lot of work, but doable. Wear a good face mask, though. You don't want to breathe carbon dust.

I'll keep my fingers crossed that the Coke trick works for you,
Jim
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Q: Jim - When shifting from the big ring to the small ring on my triathlon bike (Felt B2) the chain will sometimes drop off the big chainring but not engage the small chainring. It will stay up against the side of the big ring and I can spin the cranks freely like I've shifted into neutral! The motor (me) is disengaged from the transmission and there is no power to the rear wheel. It's very frustrating and when it happens I've got to shift back to the big ring and try again (as I start uphill, or fall off my rollers!).

The front derailleur is a Shimano Dura-Ace, the chain is a Shimano Ultegra 10 speed and the crankset and rings are FSA SLK 53/39. The shifting is friction, not indexed. If an agressive shift is used to throw the chain over farther, faster, the chain may drop (off the inside ring). I've always heard that double front chainrings are simpler and more trouble free than triple, but I never had problems with my road bike (triple) like I've had with this. I've been told to ease up on the pedals to reduce chain tension, (but that's not always gonna happen) Can this be fixed?

Thanks in advance,
Aaron

A: Thanks for writing, Aaron. It's essential to ease up on front shifts so that would be the first thing to try. You should always take all pressure off the pedals when shifting the front derailleur. Any other shifting technique is asking for trouble. The jumps between rings are just too big and the power you can put on the chain and rings is just too extreme. Keep in mind that when you push on the pedals the chain becomes a solid steel bar and it does NOT want to move sideways. It's only when you take all the pressure off that the chain gets flexible and has the sideways lateral play to shift smoothly from ring to ring. Experienced racers know this and even in the heat of a race, if they're smart, they will baby the front shifts to ensure no problems. Doing anything else is risking losing the race.

Having said all that, front derailleurs are among the most difficult parts to adjust on a bicycle and even pro mechanics have trouble with it. You might find that if you bring your bike to an expert mechanic they can solve the problem by fine-tuning the front derailleur (a common mistake is incorrect positioning on the frame - see diagram). Be sure to explain to them the problems you're having and also insist that they take a real test ride to experience the shifting on the road, not just on the repair stand. If they balk at this request, or seem disinterested, find a shop that really wants to figure out the problem and help you out. And, even if they're super nice and helpful, if they can't fix the problem, you should consider trying another mechanic to see if he/she has more experience with front derailleurs. (They seem simple, but they're anything but.)

One more thing to check is your cable. If it's sticky (like would happen if energy drink dripped on the frame and got on the cable or the cable guides), that will make the derailleur shift slowly or even not at all. Cleaning and lubing the cable is easy and might also solve the problem if you have a sticky cable. It could be worn or rusty, too. If so, replace it.

The whole thing could very well be your shifting technique, though, so you should try shifting with finesse and seeing if that solves the problem right away. It might. Good luck!

Jim
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Q: Howdy Jim,
The foam pads on my Giro Transit II (mfg. date March 04) helmet have become so stinky that when sweat drips down over them onto my face, I can hardly stand it. I live in Santa Cruz, CA, not too far from Bell Sports, the company that makes Giro helmets, so I called them about replacement pads and they told me they are unavailable. Furthermore, they told me that the helmet should be replaced every 3 years anyway, because the material breaks down and is no longer safe. This is nuts! Is it not possible to design a good helmet that will last longer than 3 years? I'm sure thousands of years from now, Giro/Bell will be well-represented and studied by archaeologists digging through the mountainous middens of debris created by our throwaway culture. Any thoughts on the short life-cycle of the bicycle helmet?

Cheers,
David

A: Thanks for the great questions, David. Here's what I'd do: take your helmet on down to the great folks at the Spokesman in Santa Cruz and ask if by chance they can break out their replacement pads box and see if they have any old pads you can put in your helmet. That's what I did not too long ago on my 4-year-old Giro and they had just what I needed - the exactly right pads. I think the pads cost me about $5, a lot less than a helmet.

And, yes, the helmet companies say you have to replace the helmets for max safety, but most riders don't... especially with the escalating cost of the fancier helmets. Maybe in the worst accident you'd be at more risk, but I haven't seen any scientific proof of this. It sounds logical because the impact material in the helmets is polystyrene foam that protects less over time supposedly, but I don't really know if it's true. If you'd like to learn a lot more about helmets and possibly the facts on how long they will protect you you might visit the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute a good online resource.

I think the Spokesman will be able to help you out.
Jim
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NEWSWIRE: ToC Blog, Book Reviewed, Lube contin.

You may already know that the Tour of California, the most important race in America, commences in Sacramento on February 14 and will race right into my home town of Santa Cruz on the 16th. This is a huge deal for us and we're all working to promote the race and make it a success so it comes back again. For my part, I've begun blogging about the race for local Internet provider Cruzio.com and I wanted to give you the link so you can follow along (screenshot above). I'll take a local perspective on the race and keep it fun. Let me know if there's anything you'd like me to cover...............In other blog news of a commercial nature, I was delighted to see that top NorCal racer Michael Hernandez who blogs for the NorCalCyclingNews has some great things to say about my Your Home Bicycle Workshop book. I wanted to share his kind words (scroll a bit) and use this space to thank him, too. Appreciate the support, Michael...............Also, a reader added a great tip you might want to try in my post about chain lubing. He suggests simply using car wax to lube your chain. Scroll to the lube post and read the comments to get the whole story, and post your comments if you try it to let us know how you like it.

Have a nice cycling weekend!

Jim

Wax-based chain lubes?

Question 1: I know that paraffin wax is often used on some metal surfaces such as drill bits and saw blades to keep them sharp and to prevent corrosion. I talked with a beekeeper and I was told that beeswax is actually best for these purposes. I have heard that some chain lubes contain some wax, is this true? How can this wax retain its liquid properties? I also heard that some people dip their bike chains in wax. Does this help? I cleaned my chain thoroughly and applied a stick of beeswax to it as I rotated the chain. I also applied wax to my cogs. Should I also apply some oil to my chain or is the beeswax alone sufficient?

Appreciate it,
Joe

Q 2: Jim - As a general rule, things are pretty dry out here where I ride in Denver, so I don’t need an extreme lube. I also like to keep my drivetrain pretty clean. Thus, I like some of the wax-based lubes. I really like how clean White Lightning is, but it dries out and begins chirping like after two rides. I just tried another dry lube by SRAM, and it held up a little longer, but it seems to attract gunk more like a wet lube. What’s your favorite lube?

Thanks,
Paul

A: Good questions, guys. Whether or not a wax-based bicycle lube, or basic paraffin will work as a bicycle chain lube depends mostly on where and how you ride. Wax is best for relatively dry, clean climates and on bikes that aren't ridden in the rain or wet.

If those are your conditions, Joe, an easy way to try a bicycle chain wax and see if you like it is to get some White Lightning Clean Ride, which is a popular self-cleaning wax lube. It's self-cleaning because you apply it to your chain and let it dry overnight. The next morning the chain is dry and as you ride, the wax build-up on the chain chips off in small flakes (don't worry, there's still wax on there lubing the drivetrain). As you apply more wax when you need it and keep riding, any old grime on your chain chips off until you're left with an almost white chain that's completely lubricated with the Clean Ride wax lube. You can also lubricate your cassette cogs with it.

I live in Santa Cruz, California where it is dry most of the year and I've used White Lightning on bikes I only ride on dry days and it works just fine. You should give it a try if you live in a dry area and don't get caught in the rain often, and see how it works for you.

You mentioned beeswax. I haven't tried that as a chain lube, but there are cyclists who believe you should use paraffin from the grocery store. They heat the paraffin to melt it and put the chain in the hot paraffin until it gets hot, too. That causes the paraffin to penetrate the chain nicely and get enough lube on and in it. They then remove the chain so the excess wax drips off, the rest dries on the chain, and they install the chain on the bike. A wax job like this could give you a month's worth of lube if you stay out of the rain and dirt. But, it is easiest if you have a connecting "master" link on your chain like the Wipperman Connex link . If not, you'll need to push out a pin and use a replacement pin each time you remove your chain to give it the hot wax treatment. That's not really recommended since every time the chain comes apart you need another new pin and you can damage links if you're not good with your chain tool.

You can certainly try rubbing the paraffin or your beeswax on the chain and cogs, but that will only get a light layer on the outside surfaces. You need to lube the inside too, where the links and rollers wear on each other. That's why you heat the chain and wax to get it to flow inside and all over, too.

You don't have to heat the chain to lube it with White Lightning because it has a carrier in it that keeps the wax liquid enough to penetrate the chain as is.

So, ultimately, if you're interested in waxing your chain, you should give White Lightning a try because it's easy to use and effective. I think you'll like it - as long as you don't live where you have to ride in the rain a lot.

If, like Paul, though, you discover that the wax lubes you try leave your chain squeaking in short order, I recommend another lube. I actually used White Lightning for a long time back in the mid 1990s but eventually got tired of the chirping when it ran out while I was on rides.

So, now I use Pro Gold ProLink. I've had good luck with it. To apply, you put a drop on each link at night, then wipe off the excess in the morning and you should get about 2 weeks out of it before you need to apply more. (Depending on how often you ride and your riding conditions, of course.)

The ProLink isn't perfect. You still have to clean your chain once in awhile, but I just do it by applying some more lube and wiping the chain and rings down well. As long as you keep it wiped clean like this and don't put on too much, it should work great for you, preventing squeaking, providing a nice, smooth ride and ensuring your chain, cogs and chainrings last as long as possible. I learned about Pro Gold from Uncle Al at RoadBikeRider.com. He swears by it and he rides in Montrose, Colorado.

There are other great lubes available from a variety of makers like Pedro's or Finish Line, so if wax or ProLink isn't right for you, check with your riding buddies and see what they like or visit your local bicycle shop and ask what they recommend, too. Sometimes it takes a little experimentation to find a lube you love.

Jim