Q&A: Trainer with Bolt-On Wheel, Fixie Fix

Q: Hi Jim,I bought a Bell Motivator Mag Indoor Bicycle Trainer and it came with a quick-release skewer. I heard that it's better to use that skewer than the one on your bike, so it doesn't mess up the original one. My bike doesn't have a quick release in the back wheel, only the front. My question is how do I put the skewer into the wheel? I have a hybrid Schwinn road bike. I looked all over the internet and couldn't find anything on how to replace the axle w/the skewer.

Thanks, Karen

A: Hi Karen,

I'm not experienced with the trainer you have, but in most cases, trainers today are designed to work with bicycles that have quick release wheels (with skewers) and ALSO with bikes that have bolt-on rear wheels (no skewer; like your bike). So, before converting your rear wheel to make it quick-release with a skewer, you should try the bicycle and see if it fits into the trainer as is.

Usually the two pieces on the trainer that screw in and hold onto the skewer on each side of the trainer are hollow (see photo), which means that your bolt-on axle will slide right in and the trainer's wheel holders will then press on the axle nuts and support your bike just fine. Give that a try.

If it doesn't work, you can convert your wheel to quick release, but you might want to have a shop do it for you. It's not hard but you need a few special tools so it will be cheaper to have it done than to do it yourself. They will simply remove your original axle set and replace it with a quick-release axle set with a skewer. The skewer that came with the trainer is only one part of the system. You need the entire axle set, too, in order to use the skewer. The other option is to replace the entire rear wheel, but that will cost even more. My best guess is that that trainer will work fine with your bike just the way it is so you won't need to spend anything at all.

Good luck!

Jim

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Q: I have a question concerning my single-speed, Jim. I would like to convert to fixed gear without going through the process of getting a flip-flop hub. The hub I currently have has two sides meant for two different freewheels sizes only. Meaning, no step-down thread for Fixed Gear. My question is, would there be anywhere to lock the freewheel and make my bike a fixed gear?

Thank you,

Travis

A: It sounds to me like all that's needed to make your bike a fixed gear is to install a fixed-gear cog (also called a "track cog," instead of a freewheel http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Dura%2DAce+Track+Cog&vendorCode=SHIM&major=8&minor=6.

You don’t have the step-down threading on your hub, which is for the reverse-threaded lockring that holds on the cog. But, it's possible to ride fixie without one. What you can do is thread on the fixed cog and then on top of it, thread on an English bottom bracket adjustable-cup lockring from an older-style 3-piece bottom bracket.

The lockring is the same thread as your hub and the fixed cog, but having the cog tightened on and then in effect, having a nut on top of it, means the cog is held pretty well in place on the hub and won't come off too easily when you're riding. To keep things tight, when you install the lockring, put some blue locktite on it to help it hold fast and keep the cog from turning. You might also be able to install two lockrings if you have the room for it on your hub for double the protection from unscrewing.

Hope this helps you out,
Jim

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Q&A: Mixing SRAM/Campy; bike for big man; vintage wrenches; QR to bolt-on axles

Q: Hi Jim,
Always good to read your opinion where I can. It sure helps. I'd like a short answer from you. I run Campy Chorus bikes. I'd like to buy the SRAM Force gruppo but would like to be able to ride my Campy wheels without having to change cassettes and hub body. Do you think it will be fine? Where could I find info about SRAM/Campy compatibility?

Thank you,
Pierre

A: I have not had the opportunity to extensively ride or test the SRAM components so I did a little research and discovered that my friend Lennard Zinn, tech writer at VeloNews magazine has - and has written about compatibility issues. Unfortunately, he says that SRAM works fine shifting Shimano and SRAM cassettes but that Campagnolo cassettes (10-speed) have different spacing and won't shift correctly. You can read his explanation here: http://www.velonews.com/article/73404

Hope this helps,
Jim
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Q: Next week is my boyfriend's birthday and I wanted to buy him a bicycle. I was hoping to stay in the price range of $250-$300. The bike would be used for pleasure, leisure, and extra activity. We would not be racing or doing any serious competing. We live in Philadelphia so there are some bike trails near us that we could ride on. I talked to some people and they said to look
into last year's models. My boyfriend is also close to 300 pounds - and I was wondering if I should take that into consideration when finding a bike. If you could give me some suggests/model/brands of bikes you think would be good I would greatly appreciate it - thanks!

Colleen

A: What a nice birthday present, Colleen! I would recommend checking out the Trek 820, which sells for $290 (sug retail) and should be available at just about any bike shop that sells Trek bikes. It will come fully assembled and with a full guarantee and the shop will be happy to adjust the seat and bars to him and answer any questions he has. They'll also give the bike a free tune up after he breaks it in with a month or so of rides.

The 820 is a basic mountain bike. It's good for a big rider because it has a
strong frame and wheels, a nice upright riding position so he'll be comfortable and it has low gears for easier pedaling and for riding up hills. It also has quality brakes and a suspension fork for some more comfort.

He'll need to try the seat to make sure it fits right and is comfortable but that's the case on any new bike. If he doesn't like the way it feels after a few rides he should ask the shop to try another and he should be able to find one he likes after trying a few.

Here's a link to the bike online so you can check it out. It comes in 2 colors and you can click the colors to see the different one: http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2008/mountain_hardtail/820/820/

I hope this helps and that you have a nice birthday party and he loves the bike,
Jim
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Q: Hi Jim, I don't have a question on repairs, but i do have a question about cone wrenches. I have 3 wrenches made by Park Tool which are in sizes 11/16 ,7/8 ,and 1/2 inches. They are the old style. About 8 inches long with the old Park Tool logo. What I was wondering is how many sizes were there and in what years were they made? I do own 13-20, 22mm in the new and old style. Thank you for your time,

Don

A: Ah, a Park Tool trivia question......

We've made several different versions of cone wrench over the years including a complete set of fractional wrenches. A complete set would have included 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4 and 7/8". The photo shows wrenches from two different times. The circular logo would be from the 70's or early 80's and the sprocket logo could go as far back as '85. We discontinued fractional wrenches in about 1990 as there was no use for them. The first cone wrenches we made were for Schwinn starting in the late 60's early 70's. They had red handles.

I hope this helps,
Eric Hawkins
Park Tool Company
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Q: Hi Jim,
I bought a used one-speed freewheel bike a few years ago and it came with quick release axles on both the front and back. I know a little bit about hubs, like how to adjust them. But I have one question. I would like to change from my quick releases to bolt-on wheels. Do I need to buy only a new axle with cones and bolts, or do I have to change my hub completely? I keep hearing about solid hubs vs. quick-release hubs, but I can't find any info.

Thanks,
Katie

A: Hi Katie,
It depends on what hubs you have but in most cases you can simply remove your axle set (the quick release axle, cones, spacers, lockrings) and replace it with a bolt-on axle set (you can use your old bearing again unless they're old, in which case you should go ahead and put in new ones). Good shops should carry the bolt-on axle sets and if you're lucky you'll find ones that will work on your front and rear hubs. You may find that the dustcaps, which are original to the hubs may not be completely compatible with the new bolt-on axle set's cones. If that's the case you can usually
easily "shrink" the cones by grinding or filing them or enlarge the holes in the dustcaps with some emery cloth or sandpaper.

What you might do is head down to the bike shop with your wheels, having already removed the QR axles. Then, you can take their bolt-on axle sets and test fit them into your hubs to see if they will work. If you're lucky they'll go right in. Be sure to get chromoly bolt-on axles, not cheap carbon steel, because carbon steel is more likely to bend with a lot of use. Chromoly axles should hold up to almost anything.

Happy hub overhauling!
Jim