Q&A: What's That Clicking Noise? and more

Tech Q & A: What's That Clicking Noise? Spokes, Shifters and Tricycles

Q: Jim -

I have a Diamondback Deluxe bicycle and as it rolls it goes click, click, click, click. It has 21 speeds and has Shimano components. If you pedal it does not click. As soon as you stop pedaling and coast, it clicks. If you pedal backwards the amount of clicking increases. If you go faster it clicks faster too. I assume it has something to do with the gears? Is there any way to stop it from doing this?

Thanks,

Tim

A: Great question, Tim, and you're not the first to ask me how to stop this noise. To help explain, here's a photo I took of a disassembled freewheel to show you what makes bicycles click (click to enlarge). Almost all bicycles with gears do this. And, it’s an important part of the bike that’s making the clicking so you don’t want to try to stop it.

If it really bothers you, it's possible to lubricate the bearings inside the freewheel/cassette (the mechanism that clicks) with slightly heavier oil to make the clicking quieter. But it's a little tricky to get the oil in there as freewheels and cassettes are usually semi sealed at the factory. So, it's usually not worth the effort just to make it a little quieter.

Hope this helps,

Jim

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Q: Good morning Jim,

Hello from a sunny but cool Costa Blanca. I have just dug my mountain bike out of mothballs (been working in UK for 2 years). All seemed fine except whilst riding up a slight incline the rear derailleur seems to be jumping a cog every 3 or 4 revolutions I have tried altering the settings, but to no avail. I should point out that it only does this in 3rd to 6th on each of the gear settings Hi through Med to Low. Any ideas what I am missing (apart from a brain!)?

Your assistance would be appreciated,

Peter

A: Hi Peter,

Have you checked to see if the shift lever is loose and not holding the derailleur in gear? That’s a common cause of what you describe. Depending on what type of shifters you have on your bike it might be as simple as tightening a tension screw on the shifter clockwise to keep the shifter from moving and allowing the derailleur to shift out of gear.

If this is what’s wrong you should be able to see the shift lever move about the same time the derailleur skips out of gear. Take a look at that and maybe it will solve the problem. You can also check this page on my website that provides a step-by-step on rear derailleur adjustment.

Hopefully something here will help. I’m happy to offer more help if needed,

Jim, from now, windy, chilly and wet Northern California
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Q: Hello Jim,

I came across your website and am looking forward to referencing your bicycle workshop book! Question: Is it possible to order one and two spokes rather than a whole box? I am looking for spares, but find that most online stores only carry full boxes, varying in quantity. Seems like a headache for a sub-dollar item to be shipped I suppose. And then my LBS's only had misc spokes on hand and some had none, but could order for me entire boxes of a given size. Curious as to your experience. Thanks for the online reading and expert insight!

Justin

A: Thanks for the email, Justin. Any good bicycle shop should be happy to sell you however many spokes you need. They might be out of stock of a certain size sometimes, but most good shops should have spokes in most common sizes in order to fix wheels. Some top shops even have the precision +/- $3,700 Phil Wood spoke cutting/threading machine that lets them "make" spokes in any size they want (photo).

Still, I know it isn’t like it used to be and that there are some shops that don’t even do any wheelbuilding since they buy all their wheels already built and don’t do major wheel repairs. But you should still be able to find a shop with spokes and they should be happy to sell you what you need. I’d just call around until you find a bicycle shop with spokes. Since you're somewhere in Wisconsin, have you tried Yellow Jersey in Madison?

FYI: Online places can’t make any money selling individual spokes so they require you to buy the whole box in most cases. Hope you can find the right shop for those spokes.

Happy wheelbuilding,

Jim
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Q: Jim, don't know if you can help, but here goes -

I work for a city in Arizona and recently we were given a Mead Cossack tricycle by a man who was throwing it away. The man told us it was his 84 year old wife's bike as a child and she no longer wanted it. The tricycle is in great shape for its age. missing only the fabric off the seat and the right pedal. The rubber on all the tires is still there, only cracked on the main wheel. The body is in great shape, just faded. The questions we have are: is it worth anything and if the city wants to restore it for the city hall, where do we begin? Any history would help!

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide,

Scott

A: Hi Scott,

I’m not a tricycle expert, but I can give you a link to a site that seems to be helpful, though they don’t list the Mead you have. It’s http://www.tricyclefetish.com/

You’ll see they claim to answer questions so maybe you can send a photo and get some help with your bike. You can also check eBay.com, look for trikes similar in age or style to yours and watch auctions to get a feel for value. In my experience, vintage trikes go for $50 to $75 if they’re excellent, original, all-there examples, but they have to be pretty special.

Sorry I can’t offer more help but I hope this gets you started,

Jim
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Q&A: Old Pedals, What's Upright, Chaindrag, Holy Bars, The Deal On Steel

Q: Hi Jim!
I was directed to your website by someone who works in my local bike shop. I recently purchased a pair of 1970's vintage Lambert pedals in gold. I was planning on using them on a kind of retro mountain bike commuter build-up. I am using brand-new 2010 Race Face cranks. I bought pedals online, and I was told by the seller that they were 9/16-inch, which is standard mountain bike size. They indeed look to be 9/16, but will not thread into the cranks or into several other older mountain bike cranks I have tried them in.

The threads look to be the same pitch (I think this is the correct term for spacing of threads) when compared to another mountain bike pedal which will screw in. The threads on the Lambert pedals look to be thicker and not as pointed. It seems like they have a`flat' on top. Lambert had their own cranks, and it has been suggested to me they might have cut their own style of thread to be specific to their cranks; or are these threads damaged? Unfortunately I've provided a photo. Any insight you can shed would be appreciated. I'd like to sound intelligent if I need to contact the seller.
Roy

A: Hi Roy,
There were some unusual things about the Lamberts but the pedals should have standard threading (9/16 x 20). The weird one is French but you wouldn’t expect to see that on a Lambert. There is a difference in thread pitch (the angle/shape of the thread) between British and Italian and Japanese 9/16-inch pedal threads but it doesn’t prevent them from going together. It can make screwing them in tougher though.

So, I think the threads are probably slightly different, the pedals being old, the crankset being new. What I would do in the shop if I was troubleshooting this is run a tap through the crank to make sure the threads are in perfect shape. Then I would try the pedals again. If you can get them started, they should go in. Be sure to grease the threads liberally and don’t force them in until you’re positive that the threads are mated well and the pedal is going in straight.

Also, I’m sure you know this but just in case, be absolutely certain to put the right pedal on the drive side and the left pedal on the non drive side, the former gets turned clockwise and the L gets turned counterclockwise. I see people ruin so many pedals and crankarms that I have to mention that. For more tips, you can read all about pedal installation/removal here.

If you don’t have pedal taps a shop should be happy to run them through your cranks to clean up the threads for next to nothing. It only takes about 5 minutes.

Lastly, I don’t want to jinx you but the Lambert bicycles were notoriously poor quality. I would be very careful riding those Lambert pedals. Lambert frames and forks broke, their cranks were as soft as butter and bent simply when you shifted the front derailleur, and there were numerous other problems. Lamberts are interesting history pieces for sure, but in my experience it’s a mistake to depend on them or the Lambert parts. That’s just a caution. Classic Rendezvous has a lot more about Lamberts. (The photo shown is theirs.)

Hope this is helpful,
Jim
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Q: I'm shopping and considering two different road bikes, Jim. One is more upright than the other. What does that mean? Which bike dimensions are the most important?
Thanks,
Steve

A: Boy that’s tricky to answer, Steve, because “upright” can mean a few things and I don’t know which you’re talking about. But, I’ll take an educated guess based on what’s going on in road bike design and say that what you’re probably comparing is a true road-racing bike and an upright version of the same bike, for example Cervelo’s S3 versus their RS (visit www.cervelo.com to compare them if you want).

Basically the former is a true road racing bike because it’s built for every possible competitive edge, no holds barred. This means a low, aero rider position, pretty extreme and best for flexible, fit athletes. This is decidedly not right for an awful lot of people, but still probably the majority of people who go shopping for road racing bikes and want the “best” end up with a bike like this. It’s a little like wanting a dream sports car and ending up in a Formula 1 race car.

Recently some companies are realizing that you can get 99% of the performance of this bike and heck of a lot more fun for the average sport rider if you just make it a little more “upright,” by designing the frame with a taller head tube that raises the bars an inch or so. Sometimes you’ll find a very slightly longer wheelbase. And, on some bikes, like Specialized’s there are even vibration damping elastomer widgets in the fork and stays to eliminate a lot of road shock.

But, essentially it’s a different rider position that’s a touch more upright that makes most people feel far more comfortable so they can enjoy all the excitement of road riding without any of the suffering of the super low aero position – and the best part is that other riders can't tell the difference unless they really, really know their bikes.

Hope this is helpful. Oh, FYI, the other upright is the old use, which was simply talking about how steeply pitched the seat tube and the head tube on the frame was. This affects comfort but is mostly used for dialing in the handling for the bike’s stated purpose such as criterium racing, road races, spints, climbs, etc. That’s why I assumed you were asked about the other.

Cheers,
Jim
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Q: Hi Jim,
On my rear derailleur, when the chain is on the highest gear (smallest sprocket), the chain coming into the pulley loop "rubs" with the chain exiting the pulley loop. I've had the bike just over a year, and the chain has never been taken off, or even the back wheel, as far as I know. But it must not have been like this when I bought it. How can I fix this?

Thanks in advance,
John

A: First, John, you want to make sure the chain doesn't need to be this long. To do this, shift onto the big/big combination (large chainring/large cog). You want to make sure your bike will shift up there and that there's a little slack when it's in that position. If so, you can remove a pair of links and see if it shortens the chain enough to prevent it rubbing.

Keep in mind that you probably wouldn't ride in the gear that causes it to rub. That's the small chainring/small cog combination and that's a "crossover" gear that causes wear and rough pedaling. Since you never/rarely ride in that gear it doesn't matter if the chain overlaps on it. And, if you have to shorten the chain so much to prevent the rubbing that your bike won't shift onto the big/big, that's a worse problem. It's a problem because it's relatively easy to forget and shift onto the big/big. Even though you don't want to ride in that crossover gear either, if you mistakenly shift up there and the chain is too tight, it's possible for the chain to get stuck up there so bad that you have to get off and remove your wheel to get enough slack to get the chain off the large chainring.

So, you want to experiment a little bit to make sure you have the slack to take some links out to solve the rubbing but not lose the ability to shift onto the big/big.

Hope that makes sense,
Jim
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Q: Hi Jim,
I recently bought a pair of CLB brake levers, which require the brake cables to be routed through the handlebars. I've already done the drilling, but now I'm getting nervous as I haven't really found anything other than old photos on the internet that tell me conclusively whether or not this is safe.

The handlebars are upright bars, the swept back type you see on most dutch bikes for instance. Fairly new, not really used but quite a few scratches. It's made of aluminium. The holes are 5mm in diameter but drilled at an angle so it's more of an oval. They are about 4 inches from either side of the stem (and there are also holes at the ends of the bars to secure the levers). I've filed the edges of the holes as well.

What do you think? I'm still finishing the build so haven't ridden it yet, but before I do or before I let someone else ride it, I'd like some reassurance they won't fail while I'm pumping up a hill (or sloping street, rather) in the midst of London traffic. I'm rather small if that matters- 52kg, but I'll have mates riding it occasionally as well, who could weigh as much as 100kg.

Looking forward to your advice.

Regards,
Jacque

A: Boy, that's a tough one, Jacque. The only way to know for sure is to know more about the handlebars. For example, if you had a second pair of bars you could drill them too and then see if you can bend or break the bars, maybe hanging from them or having a heavy friend hang from them (after attaching them overhead somehow).

Aluminum bars like that definitely aren't made to be drilled and with wide bars like that you have a lot of leverage. But then 5mm is a very small hole. If the bars were steel, I probably wouldn't worry about it, but it's the aluminum that worries me. Even if you just put a deep scratch in aluminum it can lead to a crack over time.

Can you see inside the hole to get an idea of the wall thickness of the aluminum? And, how far from the clamping section did you drill the holes? Right next to the clamp is where most of the stress is centered. If you were inches away from that and if the bar is 3 or 4mm thick aluminum, I'd feel a lot better about it than if it's 1mm thick and the holes are close.

I wish I could give you better news but you're doing the right thing being safe about it. When handlebars break it almost always leads to a crash, often a serious one. I would go with levers that don't require drilling maybe.

Hope this helps,
Jim
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Q: Jim,
From your experience can the average rider tell the difference between the different steel tubing grades used in modern bicycle frames? I know the cheap low-end stuff in WalMart bikes is dead and heavy, that is not the question. I have a 4130 chromoly Bianchi that really rides nice. I have a 631 Reynolds Jamis that rides excellent and is rather light at 18.5 pounds as a complete bike. So, when you move up to 853, 953 or the high-end Italian tubing, other than weight is the ride that much different? Also I understand the construction methods used such as TIG welding and lug and tube, but other than asthetics is there really any difference? It seems that you pay an awful lot for these upgrades.

Many thanks,
Bill

A: You sure know how to ask a tough question, Bill. Whether different quality steels ride differently is what riders have been debating since about 1886. The classic experiment would be to build identical bicycles with different steel and see if YOU could feel a difference. Some people say they can, some people say they can’t. In my experience, as long as the builder uses a great-riding geometry, and uses quality double-butted steel tubing, any steel bike will ride really nicely. I’ve ridden impressive Reynolds, Columbus, Tange, Champion, Ishiwata, Vitus, True Temper frames. If they get the best geometry and high quality tubing the bikes should all impress you with the ride. Actually that’s one of the limitations of steel – pretty similar characteristics from tubeset to tubeset. Which is why carbon has become so popular. Unlike steel, carbon can be manipulated almost to the molecular level by the builder. It starts as a thread, so by how it’s woven and laid up, much more can be done to fine tune the ride.

But, steel is still a wonderful choice for ride quality, durability, repairability, classic style, economy, and on and on.

If you are interested, I believe Jan Heine at Bicycle Quarterly recently did a test of similar steel bikes. You might visit his website and see if he’s offering it online. You may need to buy a back issue of his magazine to read it, but make sure it’s on the right topic first. I remember a test of identical bikes, but I’m not sure what all the parameters were. Still, it’s a very interesting magazine that not enough people know about so maybe you’d like to receive it.

Jim
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Jim's Awesome Last Minute Cycling Gift Guide

Jim's Awesome Last Minute Cycling Gift Guide
By Jim Langley

You're lucky to be a cyclist when it's gift-giving time because it's easy for your friends and family to find goodies you'll love. To help, here are some ideas sure to please any bicycle nut. These are year-round cycling gifts, so don't feel obligated to use them all up for the holidays. Also, you'll find some of these items and a lot more ideas at your local bike shop. They typically offer gift certificates too so your favorite sprockethead can choose their own cycling toys. You might also gift them a coupon for a tune-up or bike fit - money in the bank for when their machine needs a little professional TLC.

Let's start with something comfortable, stylish, practical and affordable, DeFeet's Woolie Boolie socks and wool HandSkins ($13.50 & $12.50 respectively). These super-soft, wicking, warm socks and gloves stretch for a custom fit, insulate their fingers and toes even when they're wet, and are super durable for long life too. They'll like them so much they'll wear them all the time.

You may have noticed that more and more people are kicking the internal-combusting habit and enjoying the freedom and fun of gliding around town and spinning back and forth to school or work on versatile and elegant city bikes. And note, that even if your cyclist has a nice road or mountain bike already, they probably would prefer to save that for recreational/sport/fitness use and have a workhorse city bike built for the job. To help you select a winner, and a townie that's every bit as unique as they are, I've listed a few hot, new urban bicycles that will change anyone's commuting life for the better.

Keep in mind that, just like that Nissan Cube, what they "drive" says a lot about who they are, so you don't want to gift them just any old bike. It needs to be special, almost one of a kind, something as cool to ride as it is to sit back and admire kicking back on a park bench with friends on their lunch break. And, the perfect choice is Pashley's Roadster 26 (2009 model, approximately £560), as classic, refined and practical today as it was back when Kennedy was in the White House.

With a sweet-riding British lugged-steel frame, simple-to-operate 3-speed drivetrain, powerful and all-weather hub brakes, a fully enclosed chain and fenders to save your clothes, and even a handcrafted Brooks B72 leather saddle, they'll be the envy of their workmates and be tempted to take the long way home every night. No worries, as the Roadster is even equipped with dynamo lighting. Scroll to see my other city bike gift ideas.

Flat tires are a fact of cycling, and carrying a quality pump makes all the difference when they have to fix one. You'll make the job much easier by gifting them one of Topeak's Morph mini-pumps (about $40), which have features that make inflation (often difficult with lesser pumps) a piece of cake. There are Morphs for road and mountain bikes. What makes these mighty inflators special is that they all feature a fold-out foot, T handle, long hose and easy-to-attach thumblock head that fits all valve types. And these innovations let them stand the pump on end, step on the foot and push against the ground for super-easy and fast inflation. The Turbo Morph even has a trick flip-out gauge.

Speaking of city bikes, if they're building their own townie, or getting around town on a bike without any, they'll love receiving Planet Bike's Grasshopper fenders ($115). They won't be available in time for holiday gift giving, but should be by the time the snow has melted. Made of fast-growing Moso Bamboo in a 2 ply laminate with a durable marine-grade finish and rustproof stainless-steel stays, they'll add a major touch of class to their bike and make any ride greener too. Plus, these are the first double-curved (not flat) wood fenders. Contact your local bike shop or visit the company's website for availability.

Whether they're fixing that flat I was talking about or up to their elbows in bearing grease, giving them a proper bicycle repair stand will make all their bicycle maintenance much, much easier. And, Park Tool has just what they need in their Home Mechanic Repair Stand lineup, model PCS-10 or PCS-9 ($170 & $130). They clamp all bicycles securely, hold them up high for ease of seeing what they're doing and so they don't have to bend over, fold for easy storage/portability and are built to last a lifetime. If your cyclist is flipping his machine upside-down to wrench or hanging it from the rafters Park's Home Mechanic Repair Stand will make the ultimate gift.

Coffee table books make super gifts but it's not that easy to find good ones for cyclists. Fortunately, Vintage Bicycle Press has come to our rescue and is writing and publishing some fascinating new reads that any pedal pusher with an interest in classic bicycles will enjoy. Check out their The Golden Age of Handbuilt Bicycles $50 and The Competition Bicycle $60, two books sure to put a smile on their face. Or, consider subscribing them to the company's Bicycle Quarterly magazine.

While I'm on the subject of books, allow me to plug my latest tome, Your Home Bicycle Workshop ($19.95). Note that this is an e-book, so you can download it for instant gift giving joy, and it will open immediately on any computer. Plus, it's chock full of my advice, how-to's, tips and tricks for setting up a custom home bicycle workshop, which is the perfect winter project and a sure-fire way to add another level of fun to their cycling. Not to mention how much money maintaining and fixing their own bikes can save.

Vintage ten-speed aficionados Velo-Retro offer an impressive selection of classic-print T-shirts that will garb your bike nut in color and style. Plus, they'll have something truly unique to wear around and show off to their pedaling pals. At just $19.95 for a custom-printed tee, you may want to get them several styles.

And now, for something completely different, how about gifting the cycling woman in your life an education in bike repair at United Bicycle Supplies Introduction to Bicycle Maintenance for Women? You guys could head up to beautiful Ashland, Oregon this summer and you could take in the scenery while she spends a wonderful week wrenching and learning the ins and outs of bicycle repair - a dream experience for those taken with all things spokes, chains, cables, bearings and gears. The class runs from July 26 to 30, costs $850 and is a little tricky to find on their website. Go to http://www.bikeschool.com/ click on Curriculum over on the left navigation bar, and you'll then see Introduction to Bicycle Maintenance for Women listed under Mechanic Course Descriptions. Or just give the good folks up there a call at 541 488 1121, and tell them Jim Langley sent you.

I've been riding on Neuvation wheels for a few years now (that's about 20,000 miles), and they've been excellent and completely reliable. But, what's even better for the gift giver is that these quality hoops are as affordable as they are desirable. Neuvations offers super-low pricing for their quality wheels by cutting out the middle men and selling direct, so you can get their M28 wheelset and blow away your cyclist with a sweet pair of hoops for a mere $249, or go with the R28s for $220. (That's today's prices and they may change.)

You can't give a more important gift than the gift of safety, and a nifty little safety widget every cyclist will love is Knog's Frog, a weird little rubber flashing LED light that attaches just about anywhere. It wraps around their seatpost, handlebars, or even their helmet and is held by its own built-in clip. It's easy and fast to install and remove and no tools are required. And, it's so small they could attach several to be even more visible. Knogs come in a few fun colors, offer steady and flashing modes, include the battery and sell for $17.95.

Every cyclist needs a good lightweight jacket for those tweener days and Gore Bike Wear makes a winner in their Paclite Power Lady Jacket ($200; men's versions are available too). Made of Gore's weather-resistant Gore-Tex and Windstopper fabric with a tuck-away long tail and high collar, this cozy top will give them the protection they need and top comfort too, with its shaped elbows and tailored cycling cut for excellent freedom of movement. Other fine details include the adjustable cuffs, stow-away pocket, drawstring elastic waist and reflective logos.

All bicycles have provisions for bottle cages so you can take along a drink and have easy access. But there are bottle cages and then there's the King titanium bottle cage ($60), a handcrafted in the USA (by Ron Andrews), piece of titanium artistry that says loudly and clearly that your cyclist doesn't put just any cage on their machine. Made of rugged, super-light, rustproof and non-bottle-marking hollow 3Al/2.5V titanium, the King cage weighs only 28 grams (watch their surprise when they open this gift). But, the most impressive thing is how tightly it holds bottles. No matter how hard they ride or how rough the roads and trails they'll never have a bottle bounce out when they're using a King Cage.

Now, back to those city bikes I promised. Gift them Raleigh's Alley Way and they'll be zipping around on a green machine that's as comfortable and stylish as it is high-tech and practical. Sporting a light and nimble Reynolds butted-chromoly frame, easy-rolling 700c wheels, a wonderful Brooks leather saddle and easy-to-reach arc handlebars, it's a joy to ride. Plus, it boasts a belt-drive drivetrain, which means goodbye chain lube and grease stains! And, they also get disc brakes, fenders and 8 gears that make easy work of the climbs. Check with your local Raleigh dealer for pricing as this beauty is new for 2010.

And, there's nothing like a touch of Dutch to pedal around town in style and comfort. Get them Electra's Amsterdam (2009 Girard 3i shown), and they'll enjoy the natural upright riding position, the riding ease of the laid-back frame that lets them put both feet flat on the ground anytime they want, and a simple-to-operate 3-speed drivetrain. Other sweet features include the full chainguard, skirt guard, built-in lighting system, handy rear rack, plush spring seat and low-maintenance hub brakes. Don't miss the custom paint and matching bell that makes these sweet bikes as beautiful as they are fun and practical.

I hope these ideas help you find the perfect gift for the cyclists in your life. Thanks for reading and ride safe!
Jim Langley (jim @ jimlangley.net)

Inspiring Bicycle Movie

I first saw Bicycle Dreams, the best movie yet about the extraordinarily difficult Race Across America, last summer at former RAAM star Lon Haldeman's PacTour Wisconsin Camp, and was impressed.

So it was nice to hear from director Stephen Auerbach and learn that he had "modified the film since I saw it - in a big way," and I asked for a review copy of the $19.99 DVD, which has won multiple awards now.

After watching this re-edited version I can appreciate all the awards. The typical RAAM story as depicted on ABC Sports over the years and in magazines, is almost as tiring to watch as it is to actually ride the race. Bicycle Dreams has its share of suffering and misery - especially with the death of Ultracycling Hall of Famer Bob Breedlove during the race.

But, instead of despair or depression, what comes across watching this riveting story unfold are the inspiring qualities that drive people to remarkable lengths to achieve their goals. I was especially taken with sports psychologist and second-place finisher Chris MacDonald's insightful analysis of why athletes are drawn to impossible tests like RAAM and it made me appreciate the race in a new light.

Equally poignant is winner Jure Robic of Slovenia's route to becoming the top ultra-endurance athlete in the world. And, Catharina Berge's phenomenal effort as one of the few women that tackle RAAM.

Good cycling movies are hard to come by. Bicycle Dreams is as good as it gets, and it's about a lot more than cycling, which is what sets it apart. You can purchase it here. It'll make a great gift for any cyclist.

Funny Conference Bike Video

The conference bike has been around for awhile but I think this video is new http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4cDDBM9gJts

Q&A: Chain stretch, wheel centering, transporting a trike

Q: Hey Jim,
I'm sure that you've answered this over the years, but I couldn't find the issue addressed. I came to riding a bit late in life (about 35) and fell in love with the sport. Recently, I was told that I needed to replace the chain on my Viner because I had stretched it over time (4,000+/- miles this past year). I ride Dura Ace and am fine with the $50ish expense, but I just can't imagine that I produce enough torque to 'stretch' metal. I ride in Georgia and so there is quite a bit of climbing, but still... So my question is - "Is this for real, or are the wrenche's at my local shop snickering as I walk out the door?" And as a follow up 'If I can stretch metal, can I also leap tall buildings in a single bound?"

Ross

A: Good question, Ross. It’s a matter of slang. The mechanic said you “stretched” your chain. But, this is slang for wearing it out. What happens is the parts (the rollers and pins) that make up the chain get smaller and when this happens play develops between the parts of the chain – creating more clearance. Then, when you measure the chain to tell if it’s worn out, it has actually gotten longer due to all the parts wearing. So, the word we often us to explain that the chain is worn out is “stretched.” But, your massive legs didn’t really stretch the chain, they just wore it out from all those miles ;-)

If you get a tool like the Wipperman Chain Wear Indicator shown, it's easy to check your chain and tell when it's worn out.

Jim

Q: Hi there,
I wonder if you could advise me on why my bike pulls to one side so I constantly have to straighten up while riding, please? I bought it only recently, so I could take it back to the shop for fixing, but the shop is over the other side of town, so if it is something easy to fix I would rather do it myself. The brakes are the normal block ones not disc.

Thanks in anticipation,
Irene

A: By any chance did you remove the front wheel and then reinstall it crooked, Irene - like after putting it in your car? The front wheel must be exactly centered in the fork. If it is off to one side or the other, it can cause the bicycle to pull. So, I would loosen the front wheel, make sure it's centered in the fork and then tighten it. You can usually see if a front wheel is centered just by looking from the front for even clearance between the wheel and the fork on each side. A better way to tell is to use your fingers as feeler gauges. Just use the same finger on each hand and slide them in from behind and next to the rim or tire to feel the space between the wheel and fork. This should feel exactly the same on both sides.

If this isn’t the problem, you should check with your bike shop because it might be an issue they need to address,

Cheers,
Jim

Q: Hello! I need to transport an adult tricycle and I have no trailer hitch, trailer, or truck. The only thing I can come up with is to disassemble the trike and cram it into my Chevy Cobalt without trying to tear up the interior of the car. Do you have any suggestions? Mechanical things stupify me. Any reasonable suggestion is appreciated! Thank you!

Debbie

A: Here’s what I’d try, Debbie. It should work fine and shouldn’t hurt the car or trike. No disassembly is required. Simply pick up the trike and place it on the trunk of your car. The tires are rubber and they shouldn’t hurt the paint and the bike doesn’t weigh a lot so it shouldn’t be able to dent the trunk. If the trunk lid is super soft and might dent, first put a towel down and then put a piece of wood like a piece of plywood on the trunk (not a whole sheet - just enough to fit beneath the trike's rear wheels). Then put the trike’s rear wheels on that piece of wood (the front wheel is facing forward, probably resting on the glass, or even roof). Now the wood will spread the weight and there’s no way the tires will be able to dent the trunk lid. So, you now have a towel down on the trunk lid, next the piece of wood. It just needs to be wide enough to go under both trike rear wheels. And then the trike is on top of the wood.

To hold the trike on, use stretch cords. Wrap them around the rear wheels (you want to wrap the wheels well to lock them as that will prevent the trike from moving), and then pull the cords to the edge of the trunk lid or under the wheel wells and attach the hooks there. If it's easier you can just tie or tape the wheels so they won't turn and then just attach the stretch cords from the trike to the car. You may have to get long stretch cords - and get good quality ones. The stretch cords will hold the rear of the trike on the trunk and keep it from moving left or right, while the tied/locked wheels will keep it from rolling front to back.

Now, to hold the front wheel of the trike that will be resting somewhere near the roof, you just run a rope or a long stretch cord across. Pass it beneath one window and then roll up the window to hold it in place. Or tie it to something in the car. Then where the rope or bungi meets the trike's front wheel, wrap it around the tire a few times. Then take the other end and pass it through the other window and tie it inside the car somewhere. (You can also tie or tape the front wheel to the trike's frame to lock it and keep it from turning like you did with the rears.)

Your trike will now be held securely on the back of your car. The only thing you need to be careful about is not driving under anything too low because you now have something tall on your car. Other than that this should work fine.

I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have questions,

Have a nice trip,
Jim

Q: Jim - I have an older Norco & recently I changed the rear tire - since then, I've had issues with the rear wheel nut. I get the wheel in the right position but then when I tighten the nut to secure the wheel, it gets pushed out of line & then the wheel rubs. Any suggestions?

Deborah

A: Yes, Deborah,
You need to outsmart that wheel :-) To do it, only snug one nut on one side. Then check to make sure the wheel is centered. When it is, snug the other nut. At that point the wheel will stay in place and you can fully tighten both nuts. But do it gradually, adding a little to one nut, checking that the wheel is still centered, then adding a little tightness to the other nut, checking, and so on, until both nuts are fully tight and the wheel is centered. What's causing your problem is trying to fully tighten one nut first. This can cause the axle to turn with the nut and the axle can move out of position changing the wheel position as you tighten the nut. Tightening the nuts as I explained will prevent this happening.

Give it a try,
Jim

Q&A: Colnago Book, Car Racks, New Old Brake Hoods

Q: Dear Jim,
I've been given your name from our local bookshop when I went enquiring about Colnago books. Our son David is a dedicated cyclist and a collector and restorer of Colnago bicycles. I would dearly love to get for him some catalogues from the 80's showing these frames. He is so good to me that I thought I would surprise him if I possibly can. Am I in the right direction sending you this message? If you have time, I would love to hear from you, (I'm not even sure where you are!)

Kind regards,
Pauline - Melbourne Australia

A: Nice to hear from you, Pauline. I'm actually in California so a long ways from you. Before I get into how to find Colnago books here's a link to an excellent Colnago page showing a selection of beautiful Colnagos. I'm sure David will like it.

For finding Colnago books and catalogs, I recommend searching on ebay.com. Just search on the words "Colnago book" or "Colnago catalog" I tried that recently and found 3 catalogs and a book listed here on USA ebay. You might find more on your local ebay. FYI: The photo here is of a promotional not-for-sale book from my library that Colnago published in 1986 - but there have been other books and catalogs and you'll surely find some if you hunt a bit.

You could also check your telephone directory for bicycle shops and call a few and ask them if they ever sold Colnagos. It's a possibility. If they didn't they might be kind enough to tell you a local shop that did and you could contact them and inquire whether they have any books, catalogs or posters they'd sell (some shops might even give some things away if they got them free as promotional materials).

Lastly, you could also contact Colnago, the company in Italy and ask them. That might sound crazy, but they're just a bike company, Italians are very friendly, and you might get somewhere for the cost of a long distance phone call. Here's a link to their site where you will find contact information.

Checking their site, I see that the Colnago distributor for Australia is in Sydney. You might also contact them. Here's the contact info:
FRF SPORTS
3/595-615 PRINCES HWY, NSW 2044
TEMPE (SYDNEY)
Phone: 0061-2-95599011
Fax: 0061-2-95599088
rosanna@frf.com.au
http://www.frfsports.com.au

Hope this helps you find an awesome Colnago gift for David!
Cheers,
Jim

Q: I am moving cross country and need to buy some type of bike rack for my car. I have a 2006 Toyota Rav 4. I have no idea which one to get. I've also been looking on craigslist.org, but just don't know. I want an affordable option and something that will be dependable with my new bike. Any thoughts?

Thank you!
Kelly

A: Hi Kelly,
The tricky thing is that I think your car has a spare tire mounted to the back (I'm a bicycle expert, not a car expert ;-). If I'm right on that, I would recommend looking up the bike shops in your area in the phone book and asking them what rack they have that will fit your car. Or, you could visit the rack websites like www.saris.com or www.thule.com or www.yakima.com and look for the link to the configurators or fit charts. For example, Thule's is called "Rack My Car" and is at the top of this page. The Saris rack finder is on this page (on the left). You just select your car, year, model and make, tell how you'll use the rack, and the online tool tells you which racks fit. You can also find a dealer in your area on the rack sites.

It should be pretty straightforward. Once you know which rack fits your car, you will be able to search for it on craigslist.org.

I like simple racks that you can put on and take off and that fold up easily for storage. There might be one that attaches to your spare tire. Or maybe you have a hitch (receiver) under that car and if so, you can get a hitch rack. Those go on really fast and are super easy to use, so that would be a good way to go for easy on/off and easy bike mounting. The ones that hang on the back usually use straps and they take a little adjusting the first time you put them on, but after that it's almost as easy to put them on the car as it is a hitch rack, and strap racks are cheaper too.

I hope these tips help you find the perfect rack.
Jim

Q: Dear Jim,
I'll be putting Cane Creek replacement hoods on original non-aero Dia-Compe brakes/Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2. Since the cables have to be fed through holes in the hoods, I would appreciate a recommended procedure for releasing the cables from the levers, or lever removal, pins, complete brake hood from bar, etc., and reassembly tips.

Thanks much if you can find time to respond before I attack this project in a clumsy manner and ruin something on my 32-year-old otherwise mint bike. The old gum rubber hoods have been removed and all metal parts are nice and clean already.
Hugh from Arizona

A: Hi Hugh,

You don't have to take anything apart. Just put those new hoods in a little cup of warm to hot water and let them "cook" a bit. They'll then slip right over the brake levers from the bottom nice and easy. Just slide them on gently. They're stretchy enough to do it dry, but the little bath will make them even more supple and slippery. An even faster method is to just breathe in them a few times. This slightly wets the insides and makes them slip over the levers. But, if you use the hot water, they'll be even less likely to rip even if you're a bit "clumsy." You could also use a harmless lube like isopropyl alcohol, which will make them slippery too. You'll just need to wait for it to dry for the levers to stick fast again.

In case you don't know how to detach the cables at the levers here's how: It's really easy. No wrenches or adjustments needed at all. Just remove the wheels and then squeeze the brake calipers fully closed (both brake pads should be touching). Then using something like a toe strap or a zip tie, "tie" the brakes so they stay like this.

This will create slack in the cable and all you have to do is push toward the levers with the cable and jiggle the lever a little bit to get the head of the cable to pop free of its holder inside the lever. There's a slot in the cable head holder for this purpose. Once you get it free the cable will lift right out of the lever. You can then slip on your rubber hoods and reverse the process with the brake cables to hook them back up.

With this approach no brake adjustment is needed at all. It should only take about 15 minutes to do the whole thing. Those old brakes were really nice to work on

Have fun getting that classic back on the road,

Jim